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measured 12v could be highly resistive from oxyidized cable crimps and connections preventing the amps from flowing properly. did you clean all connections properly ?? did you try a fresh 12v of the the battery with a jumper cable directly on the starter +12v post ?? .Assuming the...

my really nice & really clean locked up 9.5hp was $50 cdn and lives !!!

normal 2 stroke oil-fuel unburnt floating the barrel ... that is why lots of admins want 2 strokes of their lakes !!

no drink no ****... did you or not...inspect BELOW the pump to see if water is restricted somehow from entering the lower cavities below the pump ??

I did not assume previous owner messed them up. so twice removal of the bottom plug killed it ! with either carb :-( tried .030 gaps ?? did you test bottom plug firing.... with an in line spark tester ? carbs are just metal holes and float .. not much to go wrong if you have new...

that basic design (other than needle adjustment & knobs) has been around your half a century. what issue did you have with it ? The side idle channel leading up to the drip chamber under plug #5 is critical for proper iddling ... did you inspect and clean it and blow dry it ?

that is just a cavity drain to let water out to prevent the freezing temperatures from cracking the LU... nothing to worry about other than running a pipe cleaner to keep it open all the time to do it's job of draining the cavity inside the LU.

although I have provide info for you I would not be in a position to have you spend $$$ on expensive parts as I am not a full fledged mecanic like Racerone and others . My field of expertise was telecoms not outboards :-) hopefully the DVA test adapter will help you decide as well...

8 year old issue should start with a new topic....

if the wires are not chaffed or grounded then the load at the end of the wire is blowing the fuse. disconnect methodically till the fuse stops blowing or disconnect all related wires and reconnect methodically till it blows typically the BATT+12 taken off the selenoid +12v from the...

a dva meter is a regular DC volt meter with common diodes and capacitors hooked up to measure peak voltage generated... if you search the web you can find easy to build circuits you can wire up. no need to buy expensive DVA meters see post#6 in this link...

see page 52 and onward for 4 cyl 1998 130hp trouble shooting guide https://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/7th-Edition-Troubleshooting-Guide_RS.pdf

the diagram is self explanatory... a solid wire goes a-b a switched wire goes a... switch...b the source (A) and the end (B) tells you what it is for and what to expect

imho it should work if fed direct batt+12 ... probably needs to serviced (seals etc..)

relay contacts may be pitted battery may be weak battery cables could be causing poor current flow (needs to cleaned up at all junctions) test the motor by directly applying powere see if it goes up and own ok what year and mdl # is it ??

great news... brush it off grease the splines only and if compression is ok and nothing serious you have a nice motor. do carb and gearcase service if ignition is OK

is this of any use ? https://maxrules.com/graphics/omc/wiring/V4_1973.jpg

I would buy a gallon or 2 of cheap vinegar warm it up good and hang it 2 feet above the pee hole then it hook up with a small drip line....into the pee hole to help clear any "caltrate" issues . anything goes now....

have you looked into a rebuild.. .some electric motor repair shops may help $ vs $$$ of a new one.