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If one is at 80 psi that’s too low. A small block Chevy in good shape should have compression #s of approx 150; but it you did the comp test on a cold engine it would not be that accurate. Warm up engine set throttle wide open, remove spark plugs & disable ignition. After I replaced the cyl...

I had the same experience. 17 years with the first axle and 2 years with the second. When the drum brakes need service I change the seals & inspect the bearings. If I were dunking every week that would be different but this is a moored boat & the trailer only goes in salt water 2-4 times a year.

Exactly if you pull the drive & it’s quiet it could be a REALLY rusted gimble bearing or someone might have refilled the Cobra drive the wrong way and trashed the upper gear housing. Hopefully it’s the former not the latter

When I did my old '88 FW H-200 about 18 years ago....the square panels are the reinforcement for the pedestal seat mounts. Mine came with the pedestal seats so I just duplicated what was there.

Do you have a clear registration or title to the boat? Wouldn't want to do all that work, and then not be able to register it.

Interested to see your impressions of the difference between standard surge brakes and EOH

If you have to use E-10 gas there are better quality accelerator pumps available from Cliff's High Performance, make sure you tell the shop the carb is for a boat.

I’m think they use them in Australia but probably with more & smaller rollers than are used on US trailers

When I bought new Barr Marine manifolds and elbows to replace the one piece OMC V6 units, after I removed the paint they were perfect, couldn't even get a .001" feeler blade in under the straight edge anywhere. Here's what a new manifold looks like... one more tip, if re-using the old...

.003" feeler gauge I meant. Yesterday the forum was acting wacky lol. Volvo Penta published a document indicating how to check the sealing surfaces and how to re-surface properly.

They might be fine; the “official” way to check these is to lay a straight edge over them and see if you can fit a .003” in anywhere it should not fit, if they are really good a .001” won’t fit.

See it's not rocket science!

I wouldn’t exchange an original marine Q-jet for anything you get via internet because you might wind up with a Franken carb that will never work right. I used to think a QJet was too hard for a novice to rebuild but when I took a crack at my original one I found that it’s no harder than any...

On second thought I might want to go over those elbows with a file or belt sander and then check em

How about the crank sensor? These can cause trouble when the engine gets hot.

Did the mechanic actually test the timing advance with an advance timing light at different rpm? Between an electronic ignition system & a carb, a carb is more likely to cause running problems.

The manifolds look ok, but the sealing surfaces of the elbows look a little questionable. If I was replacing an engine I’d replace the elbows to be on the safe side.

Agreed those gaskets can be a problem on any wet exhaust design especially in salt water. When I installed my Barr exhaust conversion 6 years ago I coated all of the sealing surfaces with Permatex Aviation & that & good gaskets seems to have helped it seal well. So far no leaks but I’ll probably...

That drive was used behind big blocks so it should be fine

If you can see thru the hole in the gimble housing it should be obvious. Keep in mind if you run it with the water on it will be exiting the gimble housing just below the bellows so you’re gonna get wet. Me, I’d just do it at cranking speed. Good enough to see if there’s a wobble. Just disable...