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Whereas I agree that an older motor can still run well. That IL6 model hasn't been manufactured in over 30 years. To keep them running, you need to do your own work on them, of bring a mechanic out of retirement.

17 or 19 inch pitch is what you will want, provided you are under 300#. An 1150 is a pretty old motor, last made in 1987. Is it in good shape? If so, it is a good ski motor as it has lots of mid range power.

That is probably OK. They were not high compression engines, just bulletproof. Are all the cylinders about equal?

Did you check the main strainer under the airbox. If it leaks air into the gasoline line, too much oil will be injected. The main strainer has an oring and rubber seal.

You can look up the 4 beeps online, and see what it is. Water in the fuel is a possibility, as those motors have a water detector in the fuel filter. It sounds like you need an owners manual at a minimum. A service manual is probably a good idea, as repair is a lot different than a carb motor.

I had an Mercruiser I/O in salt water for 15 years. I have had OBs in salt water for 20 years, so I have some experience. Cast Iron I/O engine blocks hold up very well to saltwater, but the stamped steel parts do not. So rust forms on pulleys, ring gear covers etc. It is best to hose the...

Is that about a 16 footer? If so, a solid color marine urethane could be rolled and tipped, and look pretty good for about $80 for the paint. The sandpaper, putty and elbow grease are additional. Brightside marine polyurethane paint doesn't even need a primer over fiberglass.

Both of those adaptors are outrageously expensive, IMO. They cost more than an entire entry level R&P system, which is all you need. The adaptor is not that hard to engineer or make. Try strapping a piece of galvanized threaded pipe, with the correct ID for the steering rod, to your motor...

That cable and pulley system is likely available somewhere, but I am not sure where. A rack and pinon steering system is probably cheaper to buy than all the hardware you will need for cable and pully, and a lot easier to install. Why not go with that? You will need an adaptor for that motor...

A lot of bassboats with metalflake finishes are just paint over solid color gelcoat. The brown/tan stuff that peeks through is primer. It will be difficult to salvage the finish of the gelcoat after sanding or stripping with chemicals. You will probably need to paint the entire hull to make it...

A 20 footer is fine with a V6. You should see 40MPH or close to that with that motor. I do not know the river, but expect a 20 footer would be just fine on most rivers.

If the motor has a charging system, which is likely, it can charge both batteries. However, some of the charging systems are so weak, that charging a trolling motor battery would take 24 hours of the motor running, which is not practical. if you are running low current stuff like a...

You obviously have a power wire touching a ground wire, likely the starter solenoid wire. You might repost this in the Mercury/force forum, as it is likely an engine wiring problem.

All solenoids need a ground. Sometimes it is the metal case of the solenoid, that needs to be grounded. Sometimes that have a dedicated grounding lug. Did you buy a marine solenoid? They are spark proof, which is a good idea.

Some Merc Service manuals have the dimensions of the orings. You should be able to order them online. Of course if you need several different oring sizes, it probably makes sense to order a Merc or Sierra kit.

Gee, I am not sure how a mechanic can tell the switchbox is on it's way out. They are one piece and potted with epoxy. If the epoxy melted out, that would be a sign, but other than that, he would need XRay eyes.

Did the motor ever come with PTT? If so, you should be able to retrofit yours Go on the crowleymarine web page and try to find a Merc 40ELPT and see if it had the 2 brackets, 4 hoses, 2 cylinders and PTT pump in the boat-style PTT unit.

The CDI electronics web page has a test for all parts (wiring, switchbox, coil), except the trigger. If she has spark while running the test, just the trigger is bad. Normally that is the case on those motors. Heck, my switchbox was under saltwater for 2 weeks, and it still worked.

Forgot to answer your second question. The switchbox generates the spark. It contains capacitors that are charged by the battery, and a electrical trigger circuitry. When the distributor senses it is time to fire a spark plug, it sends a small electrical pulse to the switchbox. The...

A 1976 Merc 1150 would have distributor ignition. The stator would serve to charge the battery only. The switchbox is powered by the battery. You can change the stator only, if it is bad. It does not directly affect spark. A lot of those motors have wiring harnesses that are falling apart...