Search results

Yeah, underneath that outside trim piece are a bunch of 5/32" rivet heads that secure the gunnel tops to the hull.

Were the 3/16" rivets on the gunnel tops and bow cap visible under the outside trim rail? I was concerned about fitment in that area and decided to stay with the 5/32" on my last two starcrafts.

Check out Garzon Studios for vinyl decal replacements

Sure making a mess of it in the meantime though...

The holes should be perpendicular to the transom, but I always like to stick a punch into the holes on the old transom to confirm. I took the transom out and drilled them with a bench top drill press the first time I did it. The last two I made a template/guide from the left over/cut out...

All the transom hardware should be stainless thru-bolts aside from the splashwell screws on the inside. Several different methods on how to go about sealing up those thru-bolt holes, some go to great extremes. Keep in mind the original transoms weren't sealed at all. I usually tend to take a...

No experience with the Life Seal, but highly recommend the 3M5200. Some might recommend 3M4200 for those less permenant needs, but I have never felt the need to use anything other than the 5200. I'm on my 3rd build and wouldn't even consider anything else.

Congrats! My kids are my greatest blessing. Definately change your lifestyle and have a tendency to put a few kinks in the boat rebuilding and other projects, but I wouldn't change it for anything.

2.046 = 2-1/16" cut out. That's the direction I was headed, just wanted to make sure I was on the right track. I have a little over ~1" of material to go through with the aluminum console and 3/4" plywood backer/dash panel. Looks like I'll have just enough length to secure it.

Wasn't sure if this should go in the Electrical section, or Mercury section, so figured I'd link it here as well: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/mercury-key-switch-panel-mount.756624/ Thanks!

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/mercury-key-switch-panel-mount.756624/ Posted in the Mercury forum... still getting my console layout and fitment all mocked up.

I understand most key switches utilize a 3/4" or 7/8" cutout. I am mounting a key switch to a center console and utilizing the the panel mount cover/switch mounting plate. Does this require a 2-1/16" cutout? I can't see any other way to do it.

I believe Watermann suggests to use cut up milk jugs between the knee brace and transom for this process. I have always seemed to have enough room where it was never really an issue for me. Just work slow once you meet any resistance and use a putty knife to ensure the bottom edge of the...

Just keeping the thread alive, and slowly making progress. Console re-skinned and getting mocked up for steering/controls/dash layout. Baby steps...

Yes, stock windshield

Me too!

I've had good luck with Orange Aluminum.

Looks like you have good enough metal around the edges to rivet a new skin around the perimeter. Keep it on the flat and hammer some solids around the perimeter, 5200 or epoxy buttered in between.

I found the Coat-it to be a little thicker than the Gluvit, wasn't quite as runny and the darker color makes it much easier to see where it is going. That being said, I picked up some Gluvit to syringe into my bow seam with the hopes it will flow into where the Coat-it didn't get to. I believe...

What stripper are you using? I was pretty happy with Citristrip and never had to cover it with plastic.