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I think it is 10 or 20 weight non detergent oil

We had a big mable for many years (6 or so) held up well can tow it from either direction. Kids had a lot of un on it and it held up well Can't comment on the rope ball

You can try leaner and see if that makes it worse . Edlebrock makes a kit with 3 different accelerator pump nozzles. That may be what u need . That cured my bog on my 5.0 with a 1409

I think that looks pretty good. I also had one that was difficult to push the bar in , or more difficult than i would like, i think you end up with so much grease in the coupler when you do this several times. I end up putting the drive on and over the last six years /250 hrs have had no issue...

What i noticed on the newer sea rays like 195 and 205 sports with a similar hinged sunpad is a aluminum U channel that runs fore to aft under the seam in the sunpad. I never thought of it till u posted this, but you can cut a hole aft and use this as a gutter. You can see it in the engine...

I would just go with new manifolds. Agree with penfield on crack or rot through gasket between manifold and head doesnt have water at that spot. Crack is likely due to lack of winterization. If purchasing this boat that has obviously had a hard overheat and isnt 100% fixed i would pay a price...

I didnt catch it was older that you tagged onto which is frowned upon. Best to start you own thread

Assumed u needed to rebuild engine due to knock… head gaskets prone to blow in minor overheat cam drive water pump - cam snout wears from seals leaks af into oil needs speedi sleeve alternator conversion kit needed when voltage regulator dies you may face some parts nla due to age but there...

I think these are the bolts u need https://www.michiganmotorz.com/arco-ar30470-starter-mounting-bolt-kit

I think on some remanufactuered engines like the mercruiser 357 alpha and bravo engines they machine the block for mechanical fuel pumps. Not sure why they do that or what advantage it is vs electric...

You can get a reman longblock here https://www.michiganmotorz.com/3-7l-470-mercruiser-marine-engine-1976-89

Make sure you get the spacer for the thermostat. Ive never been able to get one out without destroying it

I believe on a cold manifold set up you needs 4 open holes not the restrictor @achris will probably know

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/325-1403.pdf this is the tuning guide. Look up the page for 1409 although not sure what jets yours came with fir the 4.3 calibration the graph shows how to make different phases of operation richer or leaner. Process of making a change reading the plugs...

Dont know your housing mine is a 6 port that can cause issues if the restrictors that feed raw water to the elbows hang up, but that causes overheating not over cooling so i think youre on the right path with the thermostat

Have you tried replacing the 140 thermostat in there? Seems like it is not fully closing. in fresh that isn’t too heavy in minerals you can runa 160 but i think yours is not closing or has debris stuck in ti

Probably lean on the idle transition circuit. Back out the idle mix screw a half turn see if it improves. I think several folks here did not like the edlebrock 4.3 calibrations @Rick Stephens rick may be able to point you to correct calibration, but generally the main venturis take over about...

Thats consitent with what I see on the hose takes a long time to get hot especially in the spring when water is cold

No need for a new carb just clean and rebuild yours. places like mikes carb parts have rebuild kits (gaskets needle seat and accelerator pump). If this carb only worked 3-4 times then had issues you have fuel system contamination , buy a new carb and its passages will be plugged soon too. Need...

Heres a tuning guide that shows the theory of operations. Yes siphoned through the jets and out the venturis primary during low speed and as rpm increases as airflow requires the secondaries start to get airflow the sediment you see is probably clogging and causing some of your issues...