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I thought it would look sharp.

That might be the rudest paragraph I've ever seen on iboats... In thousands of pages that I've read I've never seen anybody talk to another member like that. What is your problem with me?

I don't know why this is so controversial... All I said is that I'm going to go with pour in foam. It is the same foam as the pink panther foam. They've been building boats with it for decades. My concerns with using it is that the bilge needs to be able to breathe, natural ventilation must be...

The boat has ribs running port to starboard. The stringers run across the top of the ribs elevating them about an inch or so. I'm running sheet plastic across the ribs also. That's going to create about a 1 inch cavity for water in the bilge to move. You pour the foam on top of the sheet...

Everything you're saying would be true for the Pink Panther foam... Every forum I've ever read, they sandwich the pink panther foam between the deck and the hull... If water could be trapped between my sheet plastic and the hull, the same would be true for the pink panther foam. Pick your...

I wasn't aware that they were having problems with corrosion. I have read that the new pour in is different than the stuff they used decades ago and it doesn't retain water like the old stuff did or adhere to the aluminum. The stuff I saw reviewed said that it's adhesion is kind of like the gap...

I know a lot of people use the pink panther foam. I don't think there's really that big of a difference as far as cost. It's not like there is some huge bilge under the deck of the boat. The pink foam seems like it would be a pain. For an extra $50 you can get a pour in kit... The other thing is...

It has been pretty slow moving due to the weather but I got lucky with a day in the 50's about a week ago and got some demolition done. I've done everything that I'm going to do until the Spring, as far as the transom cap is concerned. I've removed the side panels, carpet, old decking, and...

Everything else is still going to move forward. A lot of it is going to be done at an upholstery shop though. I don't have cooperating weather, and I don't have a shop that I can create the right conditions in... So I'm going to finish up a few things that I can, and send it off to have the new...

Thanks! They did a great job punching the holes. It's nice and clean. It was just a test fit. I don't think I'm going to install it until the Spring. It's going to be wrapped in vinyl flooring, I don't have the weather conditions to do it right and I think I might have to be the one to do that.

It's been slow, I've been mostly waiting on my sheet metal work. It didn't help that one of the measurements I gave them for a hole they stamped was a little small (the template was wrong), and I had to bring it back to have it stamped out even larger. They did an awesome job. I think it looks...

I used 5200 on basically all of the other screws in it. I did a lot of work rebuilding that transom and didn't want water from the bilge splashing up and getting into it. I know exactly what you're saying. These screws are all the way at the top, and there are only a few of them, so I didn't...

No, not this time. I think it's good under there. It stays dry. They're the only screws I'm putting in the transom for this project. I'm not buying a tube of 5200 for that.

I've got three rivets (I added another rivet to each after the pictures) to the gunnel aluminum and 2, 316 stainless, 3/4, ~1/4 dia., into the transom wood.

I got the new transom cap Friday. It fit perfect. I'm excited about having the clean slate. I have some support framing to build (waiting on hardware). Once that's done I can put it in place, mark where my holes are going to go for the rod holders, access porthole that I'm adding for the battery...

Part of the problem is during the transom build. I had to cut the piece of my gunnels that rests on top of my transom, to slide the wood in and out. So, a lot of support was lost. I'm going to reinforce those corners and I think that's going to help out a lot.

I got a little bit of work done on the boat over the weekend. I cut a couple of pieces of 1/2" marine grade ply to fit under the last 30" of my gunnels. One of the problems I had after my transom rebuild was that aluminum seemed kind of flimsy back there. So I'm beefing it up a little bit, plus...

As of now, my plan is to tuck the cap under the rub rails and then use the threaded inserts to bolt it down across the transom wood and forward support framing. My engine should be pretty accessible to do maintenance on, but for the occasions that more access is needed I'll have to unbolt it...

I was thinking about framing it with aluminum too. The only option to do that might be to weld it on though, because it needs to be able to lay flush.

I took the old transom cap in to a sheet metal shop yesterday. They're going to re-cut me a new one so I'll have fresh metal with no holes. I'm going wider. it's ~15" now and I'm going to go to ~30". Then, after I build a new support structure, lay out the new cap, and double check it, I'm going...