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agree on compression numbers generally if the timing appears to have moved that much, usually the outer ring of the damper is no longer bonded. use a cylinder stop and degree wheel to indicate TDC. if the damper ring has shifted, get a new damper.

Did you pull the tiller arm off the pivot!

Same reason a Cadillac Escalade is $20k more than a Chevy suburban

looking at the pic, link #3 isnt connected. it looks like its there in the corrosion crud, however not connected.

check link #3. could be the reverse lock is tripped which would indicate you hit something.

reverse lock assembly. you will most likely need to put the boat on the hard and pull the drive to repair

pull the plug and look

simply draw a line with a sharpie across the prop and prop nut. if the line moves, its the prop yes, if the coupler fails, there is no propulsion

agree, that drive is 1977 or older.

yes, with a long-shaft, you have a longer pry bar attempting to rip off the transom

if its at one of the bell fittings, that is most likely a port for a zinc.

You use the motor serial number to buy motor parts. You use the drive serial number to buy drive parts. Again, the boat doesn't matter when buying motor or drive parts 135hp is a 3.0 liter 4-cylinder 175-225hp is a 4.3 liter 6-cylinder

File the points, set dwell with a dwell meter, then set timing to 8 degrees BTDC

Drive comes off first

Use tef-gel when you put it back together

I would use a brass drift

First, welcome aboard Second, the boat doesn't matter, only the motor/drive matter when looking for motor/drive parts So what motor and drive do you have in your pontoon?

Your dealer is an idiot, or a scammer Your motor has non-adjustable valvetrain and roller lifters. If you have a ticking, put a straight edge across the top of the rocker studs to see if one is pulling out.

Fuel pressure?

Post the compression numbers Low compression would be hard to start, however run-ish at higher rpms