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I use the hand impact to loosen stuff all the time. I may have to try it for tightening but beating steel threads into something with aluminum threads makes me nervous.

I was just thinking about this. I have yet to see a screwdriver or bit that properly fits a lower unit pan head style drain plug. The manufacturers give us torque data but not many can turn a screwdriver that hard and the angles the work is being done is not very stable for using a narrow bit...

I guess if you’re a “prepper” worried about what may still run after the aliens drop a big EMP on us, it may affect the decision whether having a computer controlled engine is good or not. Won’t matter though. The money to buy and the ability to make fuel will be largely gone anyway.

Saying a 2-Stroke is better than a 4-stroke like saying the Go Devil in my ‘47 Willys is a better engine than the 4.6L in my Ford F150. Both require upkeep. That old Willys engine with far less than 100,000 miles takes considerably more effort than the modern EFI engine with 240,000 miles to...

I used to launch a boat with a 69 Bronco I owned at the time. I kept the rear brakes serviced and adjusted because I wanted that parking brake to work. I do it sometimes but relying on engine compression alone is not a good idea. Even less so when it’s more than just the weight of the vehicle...

It might be a generic torque table item for the thread diameter and pitch if the plug isn’t specifically called out.

Should be good then. I can’t think of a better way to check it without a dedicated tester.

Have you load tested the battery to make sure the voltage drop doesn’t start there?

Is the 2005 fuel injected? We had a newer one do exactly like you described out on the lake. The fuel pump was failing. It was only providing 30-35 PSI to the rail. I could pump it up with a primer bulb I added for troubleshooting and it would run fine for a few minutes and could be kept running...

I grease the heck out of the impeller, cup and base plate. Anywhere rubber is going to rub gets marine grease just like the prop shaft, driveshaft spines and shifter spines.

The bigger Yamahas can do that. I burned up a water pump housing on an F150 after installing a full impeller kit then tried to check it on the muffs. It didn’t take very long. It was on a pontoon boat so I had to start the motor and walk to the back of the boat to check it. By the time I got...

No real pressure in this application so I would be willing to try a threadsert but I do not see how one would change the problem. There still would not be a good mating surface for the o-ring. Not on the inserts I have seen anyway so a gasket would still be required.

Not sure I want to risk digging the helicoil out at this point. I never had one leak like this (not the first time I put a helicoil in a wet location). I’m still not convinced the plug isn’t metric. It fits the new threads pretty loose while a 3/8” bolt sits a little tighter. I drilled out the...

Not such a great repair after all. It is leaking just sitting in the shop. This is the first time I ever have been grateful the gear oil is serviced above a vent hole. This would have gone unnoticed until I drained the water out of it in 100 hours. Need a different plug and seal than stock to...

I had to go to NAPA. If the constant supply of air through the bottom plug hole and the grease on the drill and tap worked as intended I should be in good shape. Thanks for the help.

I may have a 3/8” kit. I was expecting metric.

Vent plug started fine but never tightened up. What’s the popular fix? Heli-Coil?

I was faced with the repair or replace aluminum prop this week for a club boat that was missing a chunk of one blade. I dug around and found a spare stainless steel prop. I am still waiting for word from the money handlers on what they want to do about the broken prop. We pretty much have to...

That worked out nice. My starting point was about like yours but the dent mostly broke out for me. I think it cost $125 to have it fixed by a prop shop after I broke it.

I had to google the 1109 code because I didn’t want to walk out to the shop. What I got back was fuel delivery, ignition or possible guardian activation. Is there a reason you are only looking at the fuel system?