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Yes, they have to be fastened on good.

Check on the motor itself, is the oil tank low?

You may have to remove parts of the interior to access the underside of the cleat area. On my smaller boat I had to drill 6" holes after I took off the interior pieces to gain access. They are usually put on before the cap goes on so you can't get at them without some thinking/engineering.

Well did you have it running? If it did it after started but not warmed up, I'd say the drive lube, or oil pressure. The drive lube monitor float will stick sometimes as the bottle should be cleaned out on occasion.

Wow, even in saltwater ones I've seen aren't that bad. Following along to see what comes of it.

Looks green goop to me in the pics, it shouldn't be there. Also the gimble bearing don't look good. It should turn smooth with your fingers, no rough spots. Back to your question, you stated you changed the seals, did you change all of them including the shift shaft seal? And welcome to I boats.

Confession is good for the soul though, and I thank you all. Color me feeling dumb. No worries, we've all done the opposite of what should be done. If ya aint learning ya aint working. I tend to call it experience.

T-15 to go

Noticed that also. We’ll see how they hold up.

It’s supposed to do that Before the motor starts to tell you it’s working. If it does it after it’s running you have an issue.

That’s where the 5-7 lbs of force comes in. It don’t tell you if the float is saturated. A brass float seldom goes bad, the plastic ones saturate and get to heavy. I don’t know what the weight of the plastic ones are from new, so I just replace them as part of the job.

With carb inverted, It should hold 5-7# of pressure with a low pressure air supply. I use a mighty vac tester. Been doing that for years and haven’t had any issues. If it’s flooding after that test, usually have a bad float that should have been replaced while apart or ya did something wrong.

well what screws were in the old sender? Same screws should work and most are fine thread. Some are self tappers, others have inserts in the plastic tank to accept the screws. So a pic would be good to see what you are dealing with. I use a selfie stick quite often to get pics in hard to reach...

How about a pic of what the sender/holes look like?

Well, yes but, you will have to have a good welding shop fabricate new bracing and more than likely replace the skin In that area. It would be best to remove the interior wood or things like that to inspect it completely. And welcome to I-boats.

Maby He’s been doing it for years and says it works.

I simply tell them that you owe me new tools if they don't or can't bring them back. Sometimes they bring cheap ****, I won't accept them. From there they get black-flagged. Sometimes they make good.

Remove the sparkplugs, see if it cranks. Also squirt a tad of oil in the plug holes. By the way, what motor? And a little history of how it was stored and serviced in the past. Was it winterized before storage?

Yup, a simple thing can make ya slap yourself in the head. Like the time I was changing oil in my car. Dumped in 4 qts before I saw oil by my feet. Yup oil plug not installed.....lol

Pretty common to miss a wire when replacing a battery, check for anything you may have missed. Also make sure you didn't hook it up backwards. Make sure all the connections are shiny clean. Get a voltmeter and chech for power at the wiring leading from the wire to the helm, and grounds at the...