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Volvo usually does well with warranty stuff. Had a few come in over the years at the shop and things were taken care of well. One was a new pod drive, we had it in the heated storage and one day I noticed a little oil weeping out of the side of the case. bad casting. They showed up in two weeks...

had one that had a bad crank seal, nothing I did fixed it till the upper seal was replaced.

Can't remember the foot pounds of the pins but clean them up well and add a very small dab of red Loctite to the threads. to much and they won't come out again. Just a tiny drop.

Yes, power tune works great. I've bent the ring in the past, now it's easy as pie! I also use it to get stubborn hoses off/on and things like that. Even getting old impellers out of the housings on the bigger pumps helps a lot.

if no one has messed with it, it should be correct. The pump rod pumps a squirt of fuel when you pump the throttle. Look at the holes and see if they are worn or look like it was in a different one before. Nothing I hate worse than someone moving/bending/ and messing with the linkage when they...

A magnet has no effect on aluminum, right? I did the same thing with a copper pipe. Took a magnet, drop it through the pipe, The magnet drops through but rather slowly. It produces an electric field that slows the magnet.

that's what I thought also. that why I asked about the correct sender. Hhhmmm.

Are you sure it's the sender you replaced? Most nowadays have an alarm sender also. The temp one is in the intake before the thermostat, or in the thermostat housing across from the alarm sender. Others may chime in I may be wrong on location.

Remove the entire drain system, throw it in the trash and drain the block as you normally would. If rust flakes are plugging up that system, you can't be sure the block is draining. It will damage the motor.

Yeah, those tubes get spider debris in them, cleaning is all they need most of the time. Regulators seldom go bad, I've seen maybe two over the years go south but they were over 30 years old.

Electric choke, Loosen the cap on the choke, move it open one notch, tighten cover. Test the results.

https://www.dbsrepair.com/concrete-lifting.html?gaw=nw:s;id:561221353143;kw:concrete%20slab%20lifting;type:b;ap:;device:;placement:&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1u-_u4Tc9AIV7W1vBB2YCA_fEAAYAiAAEgIXJvD_BwE There is people out there that can raise the slab by pumping foam under it. Look it up on the net and...

Is this filter before the pump or after?? Regardless it's not coast guard approved. You should have a spin on filter bulkhead mounted before the pump. The pump on a 3.0 has a filter in it already, so another one is really not needed except for water separating purposes. How about a pic of your...

Good plan. A good shop should be able to check out the tanks and entire fuel system for abyc/coast guard requirements.

She's running lean, try adjusting as stated above. If ya can't get it to run better, you either have a carb/fuel issue, bad plugs/wires, or vacuum leak.

Swap it out, and label each fuse for what it's intended for!

There is a pre-load setting for that type of box. You would have to look up the brand, and specs for it. To tight will destroy it, too loose and it will leak. Edit. I have to ask, you stated that it was repaired at a shop before, they must have set it up wrong of it was leaking that badly. Also...

That appears to be a v-drive. And a dripless stuffing box. A dripless should not leak like that unless it's not set up correctly, as in pre-load. Regardless, the leak seems to be out of the flywheel area, as stated before it might be a core plug. Get that selfie stick down there and have a...

Camping? All you need for camping is a campfire and the natural sky.... Well maby a tent.