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Fuel pump issue?

Yikes, glad you are ok. I got t-boned a few years ago. Guy ran a stop sign. Totalled my jeep. Lucky it was winter, He spun around, if it was on dry pavement it could have been worse.

Looks like someone drilled those holes. Is there a locker in front of that area, or are they on the side? What ever it is, it's not good. There is wood under that fiberglass wich is now wet and rotting. I'd advise to fix the float switch so it keeps it pumped out.

That's in the Minocwa are I think. There should be a marina or such to get parts from. If you are having trouble finding them, PM me, I might be able to help. I'm up on Lake superior.

Neither do I. It's -100 rv anti freeze.

I've been thinking of replacing my rollers with bunks. 17.5 larson. But as I look at the rollers, I could take them off the brackets, and install bunks on the spots where the rollers were attached. The arms swivel so I think they would offer even support. Maby I'm wrong.....lol

No, them were one bayliner, and a chapparal. Most transoms are built with the wood core.

We put a pump on the hose for the muffs, after draining the block/manifolds/coolers. It pushes the anti freeze in instead of depending on the impeller to suck it up. Run till it comes out the exhaust and done. I know, water always comes out the exhaust bypassing the block, We run about 5 gallons...

The water was in the aft bilge, when it was lifted the water ran forward to the cabin area. Bilge pumps don't get all the water out, just most of it. So the water could be from bad bellows, a leak from rainwater or most any place. You will have to search for the culprit. I don't care what type...

You have a leak, either around the hatch, or cleats/stantion bases,or portlites. Those trim tabs look like self adjusting types, spring loaded. Also you want to clean them up.

Yes, but get the-100 stuff, blue in color.

HHMMM.... never had a shaft rubbing the housing. A new housing sounds like you should have.

Drain the block, and exhaust/intake manifold. If you have power steering be sure to drain the heat exchanger. Before I forget, do you have closed cooling? If so you don't need to drain the block. If you want run non toxic anti freeze through the motor.

The single wheel ones are easier to turn the wheel with your foot in gravel, But the double wheel gets you more area to not sink in soft ground. I myself always used the single wheel.

if you have the old cables, there is a number stamped in the housing, by one end or the other. That will tell you the length.

The nicest person you meet may be a slob at home.....

5 years for me. fortunatly I could have them re-stiched locally. I removed the vynal, and put it back on myself though.

I've used those yellow drainplugs. I personally don't like them. Twice I had a issue with water in the lower unit. Not much but enough to be concerned. I switched to the blue gaskets and the problem went away. I always pressure/vacume check the units when changing oil, and both times it was the...

It will leak more sitting still as its constantly in the water, up on plane it's out of the water more.

now apparently I have committed sacrilege by using aftermarket parts. I wasn't trying to shoot you down, I myself have used aftermarket parts. I learned just as you are about getting oem whenever possible so I don't have to do the job twice.