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Slap some pics of the boat/ interior areas, don't take the pics to close up or to far away. We'd like to see what we are working with.

Step one. Install a bilge pump. Step two. Find the leak, but I see you are trying to.

Not sure about the swivel wheel either. The small tires over long distance might be an issue, and they show a vehicle behind it. In my opinion to much stress on the setup. And would your insurance be ok with that? But you are pulling a small light boat so maby ok? The front mount receiver would...

No.

Mines a 35 hp, i have to put it in fwd to tilt it up. I'm going to look at it to see if its just an adjustment or if its just built that way.

Some of them are tough to get to. You may need an extension with the swivel end or universal type. And a thinner wall socket...

Having seen many boats at the marina that I work at, ones that come in with the silicone on the gimble housing as a seal, it won't last long. They start leaking again and the owners want a quick fix. There is no quick fix. Once the transom wood gets wet it will never dry out. Just keeps rotting...

See them three holes in the top of the flywheel? Those are for the puller. Never use a three jaw on those flywheels. IF you are extremely lucky, you just bent the ring gear. Hopefully it can be replaced. If not you need a new flywheel. At this point I'd go with the new flywheel. I suggest you...

99% of the time its the lower shift cable. It may shift fine when disconnected but under load it won't. The cable will need to be replaced, they can't be lubed.

I think so. The detent should hold the neutral safety switch also. If the detent is gone, what keeps it fully in gear? The lower should have a detent on the shift dog itself but is it enough?

Just a side note, if you overtighten the screws that hold the deckplate, it will warp it. Makes it leak at the gasket.

I've seen enough quadrajets to make a monkey puke! Sometimes ordering from an outside source you'll get one not set up for the application. A rebuild kit comes with the float height specs, wich don't always match with your serial numbers on the carb itself. I'll check the float height upon...

On my rigs I simply drain all the water out and forget the anti freeze. Up north here in Wisconsin, we get -40° every winter. Haven't broke a block ever. Freshwater lake superior, and inland smaller lakes.

Drain the Block, manifolds, heat exchanger, and the circulating pump, Hook up the muffs to the anti freeze jug, start motor and let the impeller do its work. If the seawater pump is mounted on the motor, you will have to use a pump to make sure the anti freeze makes it to the seawater pump. On...

Ten bucks. Anything sitting around has to be gone through/rebuilt. Even if its off a running motor its pointless to put it in something else unless its re done.

I've used engine tuner, my brothers 85 hp johnson wouldn't run well. After I rebuilt the carbs, synk and link, timing it was pretty good. Still not as well as I thought it should be even though he said it was fine. I sprayed the stuff in, let her sit for a couple beers and went for a good run...

Following along to see what the heck is going on here. Never had one pop on me and I've seen some pretty bad rams.

Looks like you ground the bolt, but it is recessed in the housing I think. You may have to dremmel the rest of the head off or drill it to remove the head of the bolt.

I agree with the above. If that was gear oil, it's very dirty being that black. I've seen dirty gear oil, usually because it's never changed. I assume you change it yearly at this point?

Are you sure you hooked the battery correctly?