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The fin is all opinion: Mine, if its not needed I wouldn't use it

Not a good idea to use any kind petroleum product on the impeller. You want water soluble like glycerin (ky jelly)

The pump doesn't suck much at all, and putting it in a tote even that high is not enough. On the hard it should always be with muffs Since muffs do not work its either the muffs (cheap ones, something wrong with them) or there is a restriction between the drive and the pump

Ding, you sure about that? North American is 240 ohms empty (or cold) and 33 ohms full (or hot)

Filter should always remain full Either a pump problem or a restriction

Should be 3/8x16 thread If your replacing stud in the head, then bottom tap

What happens when using the wood above and between the drive?

Or clogged antisiphon valve or tank vent

The VHF gets out much farther then CB and its clear. Last time I checked (few years ago) it was still illegal to put one in a vehicle, but as many things, its only if you get caught.

You should have 240 to 33 ohms (cold to hot) gauge and sender. Take the wire off the sender at the thermostat. With key ON (motor OFF) ground the sender lead to the block. Doing this should peg the gauge hot

The pic is where the quad ring goes

Agree lube is good.

Lots of rust, must be near or on salt water Agree, think I would replace the coil also The post does rust up if unprotected. Put a thin coat of grease on it after taking a small wire brush to it

Plugs look ok Pull the top vent plug from the drive just enough to see if clean gear lube comes out

If the drive is seized in the top, the motor won't turn over

Its not the plugs

Up by the water pump? If so, check your battery cable ground and other grounds attached to the rear of the block

When testing, was the boat in the water? @Scott Danforth

Arcing all over the motor is different. Is the motor clean, or wet?

Gear lube coming out the water intake is either something busted or seal failure. Need to take it apart to find out. Are you sure the motor blew or the drive seized up