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This is kind of a bad start from my view. I'm thinking it either had codes before the thermostat change, or he's guessing. Would be nice to know (better yet see) what codes are seen The TPS and IAC run off of 12V source If voltage is dropping both can throw a code Below is a list of 555 codes...

The Blue and purple wires should go To and From the voltage regulator and the Alternator The pic below doesn't show the Blue and purple but the wiring is close enough to use. The Blue is shown going over to the ALT but not the Purple. It does and I can copy a pic of yours later if needed...

Yes, the idle screw will keep the choke spring (on other side of carb) will be trying to close the plate but the idle screw friction stops it. The Mad prop setup is only for initial settings Your choke plate and the cam rod should move independently from one another. You should always be able...

If you can loosen the rear nut and tighten the others then this would work. The issue is most carb studs are not threaded all the way from one side to another. So would just cut the end off the stud on the carb side

Your correct the stud is causing an issue. The reason you don't need to move the throttle to set the choke is because the idle screw is not being used. Either the stud is resting against the linkage or the throttle plate will not let it fully close. Need to cut the stud just past flush to let...

The pump draws no more then 5 amps, it blew a 30 amp, so its bad This is a 4.3 but its the same as yours

Compare electric flow thru a wire as water thru a hose Corrosion acts as a restriction and can be at the ends of the wire, and in rare occasions can be inside the wire.

This is what I have. The original to to large to upload

Fazt is correct IF the purple is daisy chained at the Tach. In the pic below it does show where its daisy chained at the tach but for me that would be a unnecessary failure point. Most would splice and then run to each gauge

May help

Like this

Don't know how you get 17V from a 12V battery, my guess without more testing is there is a bad ground Unless the trim limit switch is closed the up will not work. The drawing shows that the trailer up function bypasses the trim UP limit switch This is Merc but wiring should be the same

Just search 110 amp marine fuse to get the entire assembly Fuse inside is made by Bussman and others Part number MRBF-110 https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Solar-.../dp/B005EXVY08

Either corrosion (most likely) and bad connection, or blew one of the 2 fuses (110 amp and 20 amp) Use a voltmeter to see where power is and is not. If power is found, push the trim button and if it goes away then there is corrosion

A, ............ you said in your first post So you did not clean all connections, don't think so.

I have the OTC 4480 and the adapter is JC0180-1280

Could very well cause issues. The motor is not timed with a light, its positioned as shown below. The distributor cap can also cause issues. The cap can look great but be bad. Most with this kind of cap keep a spare on board because they can go out without warning

Your serial number shows an electric fuel pump but my manual list electric fuel pumps came in as of 1993 and serial number 0F In any case here is the one with electric

When cranking do you see 300 rpm or more on the tach? Prelim checks to the Distributor