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what drive? VP doesnt use cotter pins on all drives, only on some. you may get better traction by having a mod move this to the VP or prop forum

when you pulled the old impeller from the back of the drive, did you find all the blade pieces that were missing? on a Cobra drive, replacing the impeller is a very quick job.

You are feeding with muffs or in the water, correct? And not trying to suck water from a bucket? Is this a new problem with an existing boat, or a new to you boat? Overheating is a lack of water flow

you can buy heat exchangers directly from Sen-Dure, Champ, R&D, Mota, and many more. however not many offer a complete kit to the aftermarket like Orca (formerly San Juan)

Look at the manifolds

Buy a lottery ticket

I believe the gauge panel just snaps in, and the locking tab is on the bottom (you can see the rectangular hole) however being a 21 almost 22 year old boat, assume the plastic is brittle and will snap

$10 garbage can. tilt motor up slide garbage can under motor tilt down fill can run motor

they all do. except the ones designed for Cummins, CAT or Deere as they would not allow a puke tank.

valves dont look bad, look like it was running a bit warm. you also have some carbon build-up

not enough expansion volume would cause air in the system. the expansion volume should be 6-8% of the system volume. many marine HX's rely on a puke tank because that is a cheap band-aid fix vs a proper expansion tank on the top of the HX

I would take care of the corrosion on the foot caused by the 4 holes from where someone bolted on a whale tail. that bubbling paint is corrosion.

you can have them repaired at your local radiator shop

you can borrow them from your local autoparts store

if there is no voltage on the terminal as in post #17, how does tapping on the gauge help?

My mother has a gear drive singer that I used twice..... And put a needle thru my finger once. I simply know my limitations. Plus while the skins were outsourced, I was fixing wiring

I made a deal with a few local upholsterers to just do the skins and I did the foam, substrate and assembly

Hammer test means nothing unless the rotten wood has long dried and was eaten by insects leaving a void Whad dit the drill shavings look like? Fress wood sawdust, or dark and moist mulch?

Where the power stops

Tach and other gauges get their power from the key switch. Should be easy to follow the purple wires from the gauges to the problem