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any soft spot in the floor means the transom and stringers below it are rotten and the foam is saturated with water. boats rot from the bottom up. unless you are close to a fiberglass supply house, your resin/cloth/fillers/EPA shipping charges will run you about $1500+

The bog on the drill is normal. It takes 3.5hp to run that pump

Clymer and Seloc manuals are just one step below toilet paper and knee pads

Only legal place to buy manuals is from Brunswick/mercury. Call them, they have manuals going back to the early days

ebay, craigslist, facetube marketplace This is the premiere DIY boat repair forums..... however because we are sponsored by iBoats that has a boat selling section and the iBoats mega mall. the forums are not for buying and selling

https://publications.brunswick.com/

the original pump is a carter. most marine pumps are carters. what is your compression? should be about 140-150 psi per cylinder.

Earlier this week, visited my old company to pick up some lasered parts (they also do contract manufacturing). took a picture of the gangway car that I designed for Viking River Cruises new boats being built by LA Ship the whole gangway is 35,000#. it reached out of each side of the vessel 45...

welcome aboard. whats a flea? this isnt a buy and sell site

or napalm or a chain saw...

that is a zero, not an "O" https://www.perfprotech.com/mercury-marine-parts-catalog/model/01/7890/V-175%20(EFI)/0g303046-thru-0g760299

yes, you need about $150 in just engine related sealants. then $100 in solvents and $100 in elatstomerics on hand at all times.

2-piece RMS

did you start by cleaning the carb? sounds like the idle circuit is plugged

rule of thumb is the minimum is 10 psi per 1000 RPM. however the stock Gen VII oil pump has a 75psi relief spring in it. unless the oil has the viscosity of fuel, the oil pressure should be much higher on the gauge.

stupidity needs to hurt..... sounds like the dealer has issues. all that is available is reman bobtails since GM stopped making the Gen 1 4.3 years ago. Dealer would have had to step up with a 5.7 or 6.2 long-tail to keep the price at $30k

a running motor will have between 13.7 and 14.4 volts your oil pressure is low the steam coming from the exhaust is concerning as you should have lots of water spraying out the exhaust you have more than one thing going on.

you need the bayonette style connector as shown in post #3 up until when they changed in the early 90's do not attempt to use the attwood brand connector as they leak. you need the moeller brand or the factory made parts.

yes you have been pulling the drive every year to do the proper maintenance, correct? there is a very limited amount of troubleshooting you can do while in the water. you will need to be on the hard and you will need to pull the drive for everything else

use acetone and immediately clean up