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the issue is that the housing is growing inward with corrosion and the bearing carrier is growing outward with corrosion. skip the oil. mix up 50% acetone and 50% ATF. remember, the oil isnt there to remove corrosion. its there to aid in the corrosion peaks to slide past each other.

oooh......another oil thread.

your fighting corrosion

the wiring diagram is in the factory manuals available at outboardbooks.com

being a 1989, guaranteed the plastic fittings have failed/cracked. would check out all that prior to splashing. most livewells have an aerator pump (normally plastic, thru-hull with a strainer) that supplies fresh water. then there are 1 to 2 drain lines to outside thru-hulls. most livewells...

overheat alarms came out much later than your 1990 or earlier 2.5 liter

If you cant probe it to move the rocks, sand and rust flakes so it can drain, its not an improvement

helm chair patterns

see post #4

im not finding a one-piece gasket from Fel-Pro for the 1990 and older 2.5/3.0 however I am sure one exists.

did the DXF's help?

Latdy emailed me and said she recognized the logo. glad I could help

I would buy a proper trailer, then sell it.

Ooooh.....another oil thread

If you have to replace the push rod, you need the exact length

Depends. Some are snapped on (give a squeeze), some are held in with screws. Without being there to see, I would ve guessing

outdrives are designed to lift the entire boat out of the water by the prop. so as stated above, if you havent bent the skeg, you only partially loaded it. your fine.

under a shelter is only marginally better than in a garage. moist air leads to rotten wood got pics?

start your own thread. the 3.0 is nothing like the 228 that the OP has

Quick Fuel is the low $ version of holley. However for a mercruiser install, I would do an edelbrock because the throttle brackets fit.