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It varies from person to person.------Many shops refuse to work on them.-----So are you prepared to do your own work.----They are not a bad motor if they have been run and properly maintained.

Heat of combustion is what makes plugs look toasty brown ( normal ) and if a cylinder runs " cool " Plugs will be oily and black.-----A compression test is step #1 in trouble shooting.

The deflectors GUIDE the water around for proper cooling.----Water does NOT go through those rubber tubes.

Some will argue and hesitate .-----Take the head off and inspect.

It is a Whaler.----But foam in the hull could be waterlogged.

Not much difference in them from one year to the next.----Simple carburetors , simple fuel pumps and a simple magneto.-----What is the motor doing / not doing ?-----If no spark then cleaning breaker points and setting them at 0.010" might help.

Too much difference.-----Might as well pull that head and look for broken rings.----A very , very common failure !!

What motor and what compression values do you have ?

Have a pair of 1982 model 235 HP.----Yes they are thirsty.----You can work on them yourself.-----If you only use the boat on occasion there is nothing wrong with fuel consumption issues.----Hard to justify a new 200 HP motor so you can save $400 / year on fuel.

Anti-reversing spring was used on motors in the 1968-1972 era.

OIS was used on the 150 / 175 models.

It has to slide up.----Often times the paint prevents it from going up !

Nope-----You have to slide the upper nut up.----Then remove the keeper from the upper shift rod.-------Lower unit should now slide off.

If screws are 1/4-20 NC threads the torque would be 80 inch lbs.

Remove lower unit.-----Look up into exhaust housing.------Inspect the exhaust tuner for blockage.----Good flashlight required.

Some will argue-----These motors are nearly world famous for broken piston rings.----With 105 PSI on my tester the motor would be coming apart I think.-----Easy to inspect pistons / ring via the 4 wee bypass covers on the side of the block.

Sorry-----But the top carburetor only feeds the top cylinder !!-----Your motor is in fact 2 separate engines ( crankcases ) and there is a need to understand the concept !

Compression test first.-----Then see if spark jumps a gap of 3/8" ( 1 cm ) on both leads.-----Check flywheel key.

I am sure it was fixed about 5 years ago !!!

It only sounds " perfect " to the untrained ear on a hose.----Agree you need to adjust low speed mixture screws till bogging stops !