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if you can set up pinion preload on a rear end you can set up a stringer. however you do need a lot of shims. @kenny nunez any suggestions?

the pushrods are from the ford FE engine. (427 and 460) found in pickemup trucks straighten what you have to measure, or pull one from the a neighboring cylinder. if you are unsure if the pushrod is the correct length. plenty of writeups for measuring ford pushrods on the interweb. there...

Which carb do you have?

You need a marine spark arrestor and a fuel water separator before the fuel pump

The air cleaner and fuel filter are not USCG approved.

Can you list your starting proceedure

pull the drive, look at the hose between the transom shield and the drive. specifically look at the fitting screwed into the drive. they are known to fail.

answered in your other thread. stop starting multiple threads on same topic.

you have bad connections (as in many). adding a load of the trim momentarily creates an arc at a few of the connections.

top of the forum is only one sticky read it at a minimum. https://forums.iboats.com/threads/for-new-members-needing-help-buying-a-boat-a-buyers-checklist.612841/ your are looking at a 27 year old boat that was designed to last 15 if the deck is soft, the transom and stringers are soft. that...

Add fluid. Atf or motor oil

You need to surface the head. I believe tolerance is about .001

the fleabay link you posted in post #1 had both.

there isnt. the pertronix kits have issues. I have had 100% failure rate with pertronix points will last you 15 years or longer than the exhaust manifold on the motor, you just have a bit of maintenance of re-filing them after they sit over winter and re-setting the dwell. dont be afraid of...

you realize that free boats are the most expensive. especially free boats that have had items stripped from them, like the carburetor,etc. you will need a signed title, registration and bill of sale prior to going to the DMV to get this floating black-hole of cash registered in your name.

that is what happens when you have detonation from improper timing and or running lean. that rattle you were hearing was your motor eating itself. additionally your temp is way too high 140F for a carbureted motor and raw water cooling, 160F for a carbureted motor and heat exchanged cooling.

start by cleaning your battery connections, then move to the cables at the engine, then migrate your way cleaning every connection all the way to the helm.

dont think so, however it was an issue with comparing outdoor equipment years ago. we had grease fittings and our competitors did not, however the competitor's equipment scored higher because of it. When asked why, it was simple, every service point is a negative to the score.

I would hook a hose and back flush the inlet. you probably have some debris in there that allows a few bubbles, however not allowing water.

post a pic there should not be any vacuum hose on the distributor, just some wires dieseling is from improper timing, or running lean is this a new to you boat?