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Use a wee bit of fine valve grinding compound to clean up the tapers ( flywheel and crankshaft ) for a good fit.----Do this before fitting the new key.

It should lift / pry off using 2 hefty screwdrivers.

Remove ( lift off ) the cam.----Get a new factory key.----Re-assemble.

Some will argue.----Remove bypass covers for inspection of pistons and rings.----No point wasting time and effort if motor needs rebuilding.

Well ----if motor is laying on a pallet it is a bit heavy to stand it up.----If pump is on the bottom is might not be easy to check it out.

What is the model # of your 1980 ?--85 HP.----I thought those had the electric primer.----If in fact yours does have choke flappers then adjusting the solenoid might help.

So with the 4 sparkplugs left in , does the spark jump a gap of 3/8" ( 1 cm ) on a testing device.----I would like to see compression of 120 PSI on those.----But perhaps remove the bypass covers on the cylinders that is showing some scoring.----The trouble shooting has to be done by you.

Are you pushing the key in while cranking it over ?----Are you advancing throttle while cranking ?-----And load test your battery.----Inspect starter brushes.

Google----Thermax -----Stickers.------Likely others available too.

I know that sunlight will damage rubber.-----Heat will harden rubber.-----Fluorescent lighting in say a 24 hour warehouse will damage / crack o-rings too.----Radioactivity will harden O-rings / rubber gaskets.

There will be a stop circuit.-----You have to be careful just starting a motor because you want to hear it bark and roar.----If there is no battery properly wired in then damage to the charging system may be the outcome.

There are temperature sensitive stickers you can put on the drive.----Will tell you what temperature the drive is running at.

Using the expanding foam is a fast / cheap method of producing a boat.----Took the motor off a " whaler " a few years ago for that very reason.-----Foam was waterlogged.------Boat went into one of those tub grinders and was destroyed in seconds.

Seems like the uber rich will power with these.-----Coming to the haulover inlet soon I think.

They all rev up in neutral.-----They will do that with one cylinder not working.-----Test compression.----Test spark.

A " heavy " boat might be a concern to me.------Does this boat have foam floatation, I think it does ?---Possibly water logged ?----Water in the oil pan would be a concern.-----Think rusted / corroded parts.

Once the foam is water logged it is near impossible to get the foam dried out.----Cut the liner.---Remove the foam.-----Choose a method other than foam to provide structure / floatation.----Doing a project myself.----No way that I am putting foam under the floor.

The pulse limiter does nothing.-----It only closes to protect the VRO from high airflow / pressure pulse from the crankcase.----The large plastic VRO pump pieces would crack / blow up from a pressure spike !!!!-----The pulse limiter is not needed for a conventional pump since the parts are...

The pulse limiter is a ---FLOW FUSE-----It only closes when there is too much flow of air from the crankcase.-------The pulse limiter is also NOT a check valve.-----It has nothing to do with amount of oil pumped either.

Working on an ---Action Marine 17 --Look for them on U-tube.---When spring comes again.----All wood taken out of transom and floor , and replaced with composite material.-----With 150 HP at the propshaft it will be very quick I expect.