FORUM RULES UPDATED - The forum rules have been updated to continue to provide a friendly and safe environment for our member community. Please take a moment to review the updated rules and our terms of use and privacy policy. Click here for Forum Rules which has links to the 'terms of use' and 'privacy policy'.
In Other News . . .
You will notice a few enchancements to the forums to make your experience better. These include: Email Notifications, Thread Previews, Thread Starter Notation, and Emoji Options on the 'Like' icon. . .
Additionally, the merchant portions of the website have been updated and are now operational. . . . Check out iBoats for all your boating gear.
Remove shift cable at the motor.-----Find the hitch pin on that horizontal shaft below the carburetors.----Remove that hitch pin.------Push that horizontal shaft to the port side and rotate it.----Shift rod is now loose.
When choke plate is closed a very low pressure develops in the carburetor when you pull the rope.----Then the atmospheric pressure in the float bowl floods the carburetor throat with fuel.
I have worked on lots of motors.-----That amount of rust indicates water / moisture was in there.-----How it got in there and over how many years is hard to tell.
Those wee handy pumps come with a 3/8-NC thread.-----Very handy to pump oil into the lower unit.----That would be the most common one on the boat shop shelf.-----Not hard to find.
They had a production run of X number of motors.-----Sold the same motor for a number of years.----Then a new production run.------Not much different than what others did over the years.
50 parts gasoline for 1 part oil.-----Seller likely is flipping the motor if he does not know ratio.----Or if he has been running it then did he do damage ?