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I use a socket to tap them in.

The powerhead bolts in from the bottom.

You likely connected power backwards for a brief bit and blew the fuse.

Distinct possibility if the cam is oriented the right way that you have neen in F the whole time.

I usually set the LU in N and the shift lever in N and then tighten the coupler. Sounds like your coupler is still off a bit.

The mixture screw should start about 2 turns out and adjust from there. The idle stop should have you idling below 1000 rpm.

It should work, but that's a lot of fittings and stuff. I would just use a 5/16 bulb.

Of course I always advise doing a complete wp kit instead of just the impeller. Same labor, slight cost increase, and it pumps better and lasts longer. The cam rod (in the LU) should be stiff to move, but you should feel the click as it goes in and out of gear. Odds are you did not get the...

I always do OEM lines.

Not bad to "break in" with some oil premixed. Always do the complete wp kit, not just the impeller.

We are here to help. Elvin has retired, I believe.

Also, never replace just the impeller; always do a complete wp kit. Same labor but pumps better and lasts longer.

If acarbed outboard will sit for more than a day or 2, I always run the carb dry. If you leave fuel in it for a week or 2, you are asking for gunk. You can drain the bowl if you forgot to run it dry. Pulling the intake only involves a few 6mm bolts with 10mm heads and it pops right off...

To get that carb off, pull the intake with the carb attached, then remove the carb.

Yes. Easily flooded. Don't use choke for restart. Open throttle for lots of air. If still fails, pull the plug. If wet, flooded.

Is the shifter stuck, or does it operate and just not go into gear? is Reverse also out?

Nah. It's more like the old 45A through 70A, both of which are long obsolete as well. If well maintained, the impeller is available, and the rest should continue working until an electrical problem sends it to the scrap heap.

Indeed the 55B is very obsolete. A few bits are available. No wp kits, but the bare impeller is available. A few individual carb parts may still be available, but that's about all.

Grounding the brown wire kills ignition.

I would go to any good local hydraulic repair place. Kits were never made for those, but the complete pump is still available.