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The motor is carbed. Period.
Those fuel pumps never give too much gas. Period.
The needle is not seating. Clean the carb. Properly. With overnight soak.
May need a new needle.
Choke open as is in no choke? Or full choke? Flooded as as in wet plugs from too much gas? Likely needs a Proper carb cleaning, and possibly a new float valve.
Ultimately you will need a key. There are 3 possible keys. If you pull out the key switch, the key number will be on the switch. You can jumper the solenoid to crank, but will need to disengage the brown kill wire to run.
The 30A was carbed, whereas the 30B and C are EFI... The A is obsolete. I have worked on lots of them. Here is the diagram from the Factory parts catalog:
Unburned oil in the test tank is normal.
Do an overnight soak of all non rubber bits of the vcarb -- in real carb dip (available at auto parts houses in 1-gal cans). Theb liberally blow out every passage with generic carb spray. Odds are the ignition is fine. What is your actual model (not year)?
Correct Luis,
Is it running now? If just not running well, clean the entire fuel system... from tank to and including carb. There aren't even any parts catalogs for that oldie.
Any good J/E dealer should be able to help. That aside, why does the OEM matter? Just buy appropriate Evinrude parts, and you will get the appropriate stuff.
You will likely need to cut your own gasket. I just leave the hoses as is and run 50:1 while purging as usual. Since the TLDI is no longer made, I don't expect many of these. I love them, though. Great 2 stk performance, and 4 stk emissions/economy.
