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is it coming out of the plastic over-flow tank? if so, drain your cooling system and pressure test (easy as hell on a 470). you probably lost the head gasket.

if I did that, would take the truck and probably drive round-trip in one shot..... its a posibility. I have driven to Colorado and back for a 1953 Chevrolet cab and front clip.

shipping the front bumper alone from the GM site is $290. plus, they dont actually have inventory of a GXP cover. the ebay rear cover is in worse shape than mine. for $700 also get the misc brackets, grills, panels, etc. that got smashed/bent.

its Rockville Auto parts. they have a complete solstice GXP, hit in the door.

if its truly a volt meter, your fine. you could have it wired with 22 gauge and it wont mater. you do realize that is a chinesium volt meter that may have questionable quality. couple that with the fact that it is most likely a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy and they really dont...

looked at the member map, most near Rockville havent been active for a few years long story short. my daily driver is a 2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP. car was in great shape until last thursday when a lady not paying attention rear-ended me and pushed me into a trailer hitch on a 2500 suburban...

I would re-plumb the boat and make sure to have adequate service loops where needed.

a volt meter is wired parallel to the battery and load and has no amperage limit. an amp meter is wired in series and is critical to have a higher rating than the load. so either you have an amp meter with a ampere rating. or you have a volt meter with no ampere rating.

the plastic over-flow tank that is connected to the nipple under the radiator cap. the expansion tank on the heat exchanger is only about 1/3 of the volume needed. (the volume should be 10% of the total system volume, since 6% is the absolute minimum and the heat exchanger expansion tanks is...

without pictures, none. is there a bottom pickup on the hull? I would grab the factory service manual for your drive and decipher what is what. if you ran the boat for more than a few seconds with a dry impeller, your impeller is now toast.

Microsoft Edge wont open flash enabled PDF's anymore Firefox will have a pop-up window for about 4 more weeks

to get that on a dyno is one thing. however you have to add lots of duration with lots of overlap to the cam....... all top end power, no lower RPM power and it would suck water up your exhaust and hydrolock your motor in a boat once you tried starting it. again, you have to understand...

props should be removed every 6 months to a year and the shafts greased to prevent this. you may be cutting the prop off.

the beer cooler is on my port side...... I start the trips listing to the left.....

fatigue cracks can start if you have a dead cylinder and run the motor for a while. the un-ballanced loading is not as bad as cyclical reverse loading.

agree on the appreciation for owls this is one of my screen savers. not sure where I grabbed this pic from (somewhere on the interweb)

trim your drives up/down as needed. trim the tabs both down just a touch to bring the bow down if you need, however as Ted stated, mostly for port to starboard list. maybe read the trim tab owners manual. https://bennetttrimtabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/owners_manual.pdf

You cant take a 330hp boat V8 and get 560hp without a supercharger unless you change crank, cam, pistons, heads and intake. You need to do some reading on cam overlap and reversion You can take a 330hp gen 6 motor (oval port heads with 360-370hp at the crank), change cam, modify the carb and...

You need to build a motor for HP. There is a limit to what you can "bolt on"

you have to remove the drive, then the motor. if you have a jack shaft, you may be able to get the shaft and flywheel housing off, however do not count on it. Welcome aboard.