1 Part or 2 Part Paints

tengals123

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Jan 26, 2005
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ok here goes. Ive decided to go with international paints and products for my job. My question is they make a 1 part poly paint and a 2 part poly paint. Both require different undercoats and both can be applied by rolling and tipping. Is there a big difference in the end result. I know the 2pack will be stronger and more resistant, but will the finish.look be better after the final coat? also has anyone used this brand and how did it work out for you?<br /><br />cheers
 

Buttanic

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

I think the finish will be the same with either paint.<br />The two part will retain the finish longer.
 

Rudderman

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Jan 14, 2004
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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

I used International Toplac...one part. Rolled it on with a thin foam roller and tipped it off with a foam brush. I don't like using the two packs because they usually contain more dangerous chemicals (isocyanates).
 

BillP

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

I've used Brightsides since they first came out with it in the 80s. Usually without primer. Until a short time ago I brushed. Last time was rolled with foam and tipped with a brush. It came out well but I had to thin the paint and work fast to keep the tipping from getting dry.
 

tengals123

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

thanks, i just dont want a 'painted' finish. cheers
 

Dryrot

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

I have used both types. There is a significant difference between the two. The 2 part is much harder and more abrasive than the 1 part. I always use 2 part for hull and deck...above the waterline. If you can live with the cost and smell of the 2 part your maintenance will be minimal compared to the 1 part.Two part dries faster so don't mix more than u can paint in about 1/2 hr......and don't double brush or the mirror finish will be ruined. Both finishes have about the same gloss.
 

tengals123

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

thankyou for your reply. I'll prob. go for the 2 part 'perfection'. cheers
 

Dryrot

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

Here are a couple of hints for a smooth finish for the 2 part. Apply the paint in the shade with a 3 inch wide 1/8" th nap foam roller. Do about 6 square feet and then remove the air bubbles with a wide foam brush using long strokes. Work quickly if it is above 70 F and DON'T foam brush over a second time with either the roller or brush. Good Luck.
 

Tinkerer

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

tengals<br /><br />Just to confuse you if you haven't already seen it, there's a paint from a mob in Adelaide that I'd settled on when I was going to paint my boat, but I can't think of the maker's name. Discount Seamart at the top end of Elizabeth St in the city had some sample boards to compare it with the International and other ranges. Had a real nice gloss.<br /><br />Don't rule out spraying. <br /><br />You can get a real good sprayed finish with a cheap Little Beaver / Easy Sprayer that Bunnnings will probably have on special every couple of months. Most people will say you can't get good finishes with it. I couldn't when I first got mine and stupidly followed the instructions. I decided it was good only for fence painting, and not much good for that. Then I experimented and have no trouble getting finishes like this on my dash with standard Wattyl Estapol http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=26&t=002662 <br /><br />If you haven't sprayed, the tricks are simply in thinning the paint way down (and well below what the test cup on a Little Beaver indicates: about 60:40 paint: thinner or even 50:50); adjusting the output to a fine mist; doing many light coats instead of a couple of heavy ones that will produce sags etc; letting the paint dry properly before each coat so it sits on top of the last coat instead of just bubbling it up; keeping the gun an even distance from the work and maintaining the gun at an even angle, i.e. no arcs and no wrist movement; and starting the spray before and ending it after the workpiece. <br /><br />The only thing you need to check is that the durability of the paint you're using won't be affected by the thinning ratio. Most paint manufacturers have technical departments you can ring.<br /><br />Also make sure there's no cars or anything else in the vicinity that you don't want paint mist on. Domestic and marine paints don't dry in the air like auto acrylics.
 

tengals123

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

great post tinkerer. i might try that. Would you sand between coats, if not what about cleaning between them. cheers
 

Tinkerer

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

Originally posted by tengals123:<br /> great post tinkerer. i might try that. Would you sand between coats, if not what about cleaning between them. cheers
tengals<br /><br />Apart from brushing acrylic housepaint onto a trailer bondwood dinghy (Solarguard etc are good because they flex) I've never painted a boat so my opinion on painting boats doesn't count. Plenty of people here would be a better source of advice than me.<br /><br />Mostly I've done repair work on cars and furniture refinishing.<br /><br />Subject to what people who actually know about painting boats have to say, here are some general principles applied to fibreglass boats which hold good for whatever you're painting if it's an auto or similar type base, bearing in mind that a lot of auto base is now platic or related composites.<br /><br />1. The higher the gloss the more it exposes underlying faults and attracts the eye. A pinhead bubble on an otherwise perfect surface can look like a small mountain. <br /><br />2. The quality of the final finish is proportionate to the quality of prepartion to skill in applying the coating in the ratio of about 90:10 prepartion:coating. You'd be surprised how easy it is to apply a passable final coat compared with how hard it is to prep it right.<br /><br />3. First clean it with prepwash (auto wax and grease remover) to get rid of remnants of wax and grease and, most of all, silicones which are in most modern waxes and polishes. Doing this first stops them being ground into lower layers while sanding. Wet sand down from 400 to 800 to 1200 grit for a smooth base surface. Wet sanding removes the rubbish as you go rather than just grinding it into the new surface as dry sanding does. Then take it down through 1500 or even 2000 wet sanding. If you're a perfectionist apply epoxy filler or auto spot putty and then spraycan sandable auto primer filler over any rough spots. Then wet sand them when dry with 1200, 1500, and 2000. Let dry. Then lightly prepwash everthing again. After you've stroked it and admired it's silky smooth finish prepwash the areas you've touched as there's enough grease in your fingers to interfere with auto finishes, although probably not what's in boat finishes. You now have the cleanest and smoothest and best surface you're likely to get as a base. Super Cheap Auto's prepwash and spraycan primer filler is fine. K&H fillers etc are also fine but they're cheaper at KMart than the rip off merchants at Repco and Autobarn.<br /><br />4. Determine whether you need or want an undercoat or special finish to provide a key for the top coat to stick e.g. plastic parts on cars need a special primer. There's various solutions like Penetrol that claim to make paint stick better, although I've always found paint sticks fine to glass and every other surface it's not supposed to stick to if it gets dropped there accidentally http://www.floodaustralia.net/products/penetrol.htm <br /><br />5. Find the worst small section of a square foot or so. Paint it by whatever method you've chosen with however many coats you want. Let it dry. This is where you might learn that the faintest line in the filler or surface looks like a canyon under gloss. If it ain't up to your standard, read and apply step 1 onwards, but more carefully.<br /><br />6. Alternatively, ignore step 5; paint the whole boat; and then decide whether to strip it, prep it properly or live with a poor finish. <br /><br />7. If it ain't up to your standard on the first view under steps 5 or 6, step back five or ten feet and see if it still shows. Then ask yourself if anyone else is going to look that closely. Then ask yourself what is going to happen the first time you brush a dock or get a bit sideways on your trailer etc etc. <br /><br />8. Reality. If you're not going to put it in a museum as the world's greatest example of boat refinishing, which you probably can't achieve without 40 years trade experience, ignore the foregoing; just fill and level the holes; prepwash; sand down to 1200; prepwash; paint it; and enjoy it. First trip out you'll probably scrape an anchor up the side of the hull anyway.<br /><br /><br />See my thread on trompe l'oeil for more meanderings.
 

tengals123

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

GREAT POST!!!!!!<br /><br />that's just what i was thinking. Except for the anchor scrape! hehehe, im installing an anchor roller etc.........<br /><br />thanks heaps for the lengthy, informative post.It's my first time painting a boat and i want a good job. Im putting a fair bit od time and cash into it coz i love the hull and design.<br /><br />Im going to prep carefully, undercoat and spray 2pack high gloss white. cheers
 

tengals123

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

ok, not going to spray the 2 pack! but, I raise this question, would you guys spray a 1 part or roll and tip a 2 part? I have both options avaiable, what would look better?<br />cheers
 

Boomyal

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Aug 16, 2003
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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

No personal experience here tengals but I've read a bit about applying either of them. Rolling and tipping seems to be the prefered method but as mentioned before, outside temp is important and don't cover it twice. <br /><br />If you are going to spray, equipment is of paramount importance. You should use an HVLP gun with the appropriate size nozzle. Don't just use any old spray gun. If you ever think you may want to spray paint other things an HVLP gun w/ nozzle selections, is a good investment. You need to make sure you have a compressor that will operate it. Unlike syphon guns HVLP creates very little over spray.<br /><br />Also if you do spray, do the deck first, wait till it cures, mask it then do the hull.<br /><br />With rolling and tipping it is good to have a mate to help. One rolls and one immediately follows with the tipping.<br /><br />Here's an article you might find some helpful hints in:<br /><br /> http://www.triton381.com/projects/restoration/hullpaint.htm
 

Rudderman

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Jan 14, 2004
Messages
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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

Update on International Toplac:<br /><br />I painted my trailered hull with prekote and then toplac less than a year ago. I've recently noticed that the paint is bubbling where the boat rests on the wet carpeted trailer bunks. <br />A two-part or an epoxy paint would have been a better choice. My boat never spends more than an hour or two in the water and the moisture on the bunks causes problems.
 

fishingdan

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Feb 12, 2005
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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

I think the resulting finish is depending more upon the prep work than the application method. Unless you have access to the right equipment, I would strongly suggest the roll and tip method for either the 1 part or 2 part paints. <br /><br />System Three also sells a 2 part polyurethane. Their product is water based and works well. It dries quickly (work in a 2' x 2' area at a time), is very tough and very easy to work with. The downsides are 1) small color selection and 2) unless you finish with a clear coat, the finish is somewhere between a semi-gloss and a gloss.
 

tengals123

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Re: 1 Part or 2 Part Paints

ok, now im sure. Thanks for all the replies. Im going to roll and tip a 2 part international perfection white. Im going to thin the paint right down though.<br /><br />cheers
 
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