115 6c TOP piston cylinder issue

[ianmoore]

While you have it apart, check the swivel pin for binding. If those two bushings get corroded the motor will be hard to steer, and if it is all together, you will hate yourself. Ditto on the top and bottom rubber motor mounts.

See if you can thru drill the broken water cylinder head water jacket cover. The old IL motors (early 70s) had thru holes and nuts. My '77 water jacket cover bolts were tapped, but you could drill thru the casting on the upper ones and put a nut on it, as the casting had a "pocket" for it.

I'm gonna look into the swivel pin and that area. I had to take the whole motor apart because the trim motor was completely corroded. I'm having to peel it off to try to salvage the pump, which i think is good. the lip at the top of the pump housing is a little nicked, but the orings and the mating surface inside seem good. I'm gonna see if I can salvage that and if not, gonna buy a pump and motor.

Ive already commited to getting a time cert. I looked at the back side for a nut and it was pretty tight to get anything in there.

 

[Chris1956]

No, bleed inserts are small black plastic restrictors that fit under the transfer covers. At least I think they go under the transfer covers. It has been a long time since I looked at an IL6. Number 3 in this diagram. They help with idle quality

CYLINDER BLOCK AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY - 1982 Outboard 115 [EXLPT] 1115642 | Crowley Marine

View parts diagrams and shop online for CYLINDER BLOCK AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY parts, 1982 Outboard 115 [EXLPT] 1115642. Offering discount prices on OEM parts for over 50 years. FAST $4.95 shipping available.

www.crowleymarine.com

 

[ianmoore]

No, bleed inserts are small black plastic restrictors that fit under the transfer covers. At least I think they go under the transfer covers. It has been a long time since I looked at an IL6. Number 3 in this diagram. They help with idle quality

CYLINDER BLOCK AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY - 1982 Outboard 115 [EXLPT] 1115642 | Crowley Marine

View parts diagrams and shop online for CYLINDER BLOCK AND CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY parts, 1982 Outboard 115 [EXLPT] 1115642. Offering discount prices on OEM parts for over 50 years. FAST $4.95 shipping available.

www.crowleymarine.com

Thanks! Those are really confusing!
I can’t tell if there is anything in there or if mercury built it into the body. If there were inserts within these cavities, they were teeny!

 

[Chris1956]

Five the the holes should be the same size. The 6th hole will be larger, since it has no insert. I would say you have white plastic inserts in the pictures provided.

 

[racerone]

There are 5 bleed inserts.-----In the past I installed 8-32 set screws with 0.040" hole.----Never to fall out again.

 

[ianmoore]

While you have it apart, check the swivel pin for binding. If those two bushings get corroded the motor will be hard to steer, and if it is all together, you will hate yourself. Ditto on the top and bottom rubber motor mounts.

See if you can thru drill the broken water cylinder head water jacket cover. The old IL motors (early 70s) had thru holes and nuts. My '77 water jacket cover bolts were tapped, but you could drill thru the casting on the upper ones and put a nut on it, as the casting had a "pocket" for it.

Chris. The swivel pin is actually pretty smooth. I have kept the zirc fitting full and it actually feels good. Is it just the retaining ring to remove the pin?

I looked through all the parts diagrams to look for rubber motor mounts. Are you referring to these:
Mine are pretty toasted, if so. I'm trying to figure out a few things. I would have to cut these bolts out and then rebuild. The rubber piece is $60 retail and not seeing a ton much cheaper on ebay. I want to do the things that matter on the motor, so will take the time to do it if it does. Wanted to see your thoughts. I have some pretty rusted/deformed bolts on this whole section. Trying to figure out what to do as Ive had a heck of a time with a couple of bolt removals(salt). I couldn't even reverse drill them out. I have a portable drill press, but its hard to get a good level for drilling on some of these parts

 

[ianmoore]

Five the the holes should be the same size. The 6th hole will be larger, since it has no insert. I would say you have white plastic inserts in the pictures provided.

I need a magnifying glass! They look like metal to me, but i can't imagine putting anything smaller in there, so either they are built in or are still there

 

[Chris1956]

Sierra used to make motor mounts. They were all rubber, vs the rubber and metal of the OEM stuff. I used them and they were fine. They were about $50 ea.

The top motor mount bolts were grade 7, 9/16 fine thread if I remember correctly. I had to cut them, as the motor mounts could not be removed from the bolts due to corrosion, so both needed to be new. The lower motor mount bolts were grade 7, 1/2" fine thread.

If the motor mounts do not have play, leave them be.

That rusty bolt above the yoke was a "U" shaped piece of steel. I guess it was to hold the swivel pin, if the lower mounts broke.

 

[ianmoore]

Sierra used to make motor mounts. They were all rubber, vs the rubber and metal of the OEM stuff. I used them and they were fine. They were about $50 ea.

The top motor mount bolts were grade 7, 9/16 fine thread if I remember correctly. I had to cut them, as the motor mounts could not be removed from the bolts due to corrosion, so both needed to be new. The lower motor mount bolts were grade 7, 1/2" fine thread.

If the motor mounts do not have play, leave them be.

That rusty bolt above the yoke was a "U" shaped piece of steel. I guess it was to hold the swivel pin, if the lower mounts broke.

I think I'm gonna replace them. I'm trying to figure out on the swivel bracket which parts I need to get that I can't get locally. Seems like just the two bushings. To get to the swivel pin, you just need to remove the retaining pin on the bottom?

 

[Chris1956]

There is a springy retaining ring under the bottom yoke. To remove the swivel pin, you would have to remove the upper motor mounts, by splitting the exhaust extension. You can leave the yoke attached to the motor mounts and pull the swivel pin up and out, after removing the retaining ring. Check the yoke for looseness on the swivel pin splines.

 

[Chris1956]

Upon further (mental) review, I think my '73 had a nut under the yoke. My '93 had a retaining ring. Not sure what '77 had. Not sure what you have.

 

[ianmoore]

Upon further (mental) review, I think my '73 had a nut under the yoke. My '93 had a retaining ring. Not sure what '77 had. Not sure what you have.

I can see a retaining ring.
It seems that to remove the upper bushings I could cut the nut and pull back but maybe the screw wouldn’t pull out. I’m realizing I’m probably gonna have to drill out the 5 bolts to the middle exhaust. They are so corroded and there is no way other than that to get them out

 

[ianmoore]

Interesting. I’ve been working on the crankshaft. It looks pretty good( cleaned up a bit of grit on one bearing-now smooth) and noticed the alternating 5 petal, 4 petal arrangement. Nothing mentions this. Is this something Mercury did?

I have a couple of petals that are more than the .007(closer to .011). Someone mentioned that not being an issue.

First- is this normal or did someone change something? The 4 petal side doesn’t have an opening. But on all the sites it lists the 5 petal as the 90 and the 4 as the 115.

I have some 5 petals I was gonna replace the out of spec reeds with. Should I order 4 petals too?

What is happening?

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, not sure on the 5 nuts. on my '77 and '93 Mercs, I had to cut the upper motor mount bolts and replace the motor mounts and bolts. 7/16 grade 7 I think. Best to check it out.

I would let the reeds lie. it is at idle is when they act up. So if a good idle means god reed valves.