115 turbojet has water in bottom cylinders

[rcmslm]

I have been looking on forum for this water in the bottom cylinders.It has new head gaskets,valve body thermo gaskets and pressure valve and springs.
Is it the exhaust back plate or head cover gaskets?The outboards I have read says lower unit exhaust gasket which I don't have other than the adaptor plate.

 

[rcmslm]

From what I read does it mean the flat back gasket is bad and the water is entering there?

 

[racerone]

Found major cracks in the exhaust tuner one time.----Remove the outer cover.--Remove the hidden bolt and remove the inner cover------May allow you to inspect pistons and rings too if you can fit in there to have a look.--Use mirror perhaps.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Year of engine? If it's a crossflow, likely you have an exhaust cover (manifold) leak. Lets water into the exhaust chest at the back of the powerhead. That type of leak will affect the bottom cyls first. You did not mention if this was a flatback exhaust or the bubble-back type. Either can cause this type problem. When you replace the gaskets, best to re-torque the exhaust cover bolts after you run it a couple of times. Make sure the inner cover has no casting porosity before you install new gaskets.

 

[racerone]

A 115 HP turbo jet would be a crossflow !---A 115 HP turbo jet would be a " bubble back " motor !!

 

[rcmslm]

It is a x flow and suppose to be a 115 originally.The block had been replaced by the numbers but think it is a 90 now since it is a flatback.I was going to pull the cover and see what is going on.The original motor is a 1995.Then it was replaced from there sometime.

 

[rcmslm]

Ok ..pulled the outer and inner exhaust plate.The inner showed at the bottom milky water bypassing the gasket on lower cylinders.When I started to pull bolts they were not very tight.So I am going to clean up plates and new gaskets.There is some pitting in the exhaust ports but don't see any concern.All pistons and rings are good no scoring.Should I use rtv or permitex number 2 for a sealant?

 

[emdsapmgr]

A caramel colored Permatex should be fine. The one in the small round can with the dauber brush.

 

[rcmslm]

Ok thanks...What is the torque specs on these bolts?Any particular torque pattern?

 

[emdsapmgr]

I'd torque the bolts in a circular pattern, starting from the inside/center outward. Torque in a couple of stages. The factory does not consider these bolts to be "critical" fasterners, so there is no specific noted torque for them. Follow the general torque guide from the factory manual for 1/4" bolts: 5-7 ft lbs. I'd re-torque after the engine goes through a couple of heat/cool down cycles.

 

[rcmslm]

ok..I cleaned up exhaust plate and cover,replaced gaskets with permatex number 3.Torque the head bolts from 60 to 80 inch lbs,replaced plugs with stock champions.Took to lake,cranked up and ran reaaly good,idles at 1100 rpm,ran for over an hour.Stopped and beached it for 30 minutes.Went to restart and cranked first time then it was hard to turn over like it was hydralocked with water again.Pulled it out of lake,Turned the flywheel by hand and did not feel like it had water so I tried again to restart and after third time it fired up and ran.So I bring home ,pull plugs and starboard bottom cylinder had beeds of water.The port side bottom had a little more water around the bottom of electrode.So the head gaskets have about 6 hours on them.Retorqued those again before leaving.Could it be gaskets again?I did not use any goop they went on dry.I know a lot I have read is to place number 3 goop on them and never have a problem.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Sounds like you did everything by the book. When you examined the inner exhaust cover, did you find any casting porosity (holes?)

 

[rcmslm]

I didn't see any.Looked really clean.You think it is the head gaskets ?I didn't replace water jacket gaskets.

 

[emdsapmgr]

That's the next thing to check. See if you can determine the current torque on the head gasket. See how much torque it takes to turn a head bolt. Should be 18-20 ft lbs. Hopefully, you will find them all torqued to that figure. When you get the heads off, check the head gasket seal rings. They should be intact show no signs of leakage. When you say the water jackets, do you mean the cyl head covers? They won't leak water into the exhaust chest.

 

[rcmslm]

When I retorqued before we left it was pretty much 20 lbs.There where about three on each side that turned.I also did the pattern suggested by a boat guy instead of the correct sequence.So it very well could be leaking there.The exhaust gaskets definitely repaired the flooding of cylinders.I will replace head cover gaskets since it will be off already.Thanks again.

 

[rcmslm]

ok ..Took off head and the only thing it showed was possible water leakage by the water deflectors.Had small amounts of water in the head.Looks like the gasket did not seal good around both rubber deflectors.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Also, check to be sure the head is actually flat. A pc of plate glass may help determine if the head is warped. It's flatter than regular over-the-counter glass sheets. If the engine were ever severely overheated, it's possible the head is warped. Hard to get an even clamp load on the head if it's not flat. (You can get it planed flat at some of the full service auto parts stores.)

 

[rcmslm]

I checked both of them last time on our thick glass top table.I tried a feeler gauge of .003 and really didn't slide in on either side.I don't know how many thousands I can get away with.But neither head rocked on the glass.

 

[rcmslm]

I have both gaskets replaced,torqed and with new plugs.It cranks up but has a popping sound every few seconds and puffs out more smoke.The port side is running hotter than starboard side.But does idle.Going to try the water today to see if it will get up on plane.

 

[Bosunsmate]

i havent read or your post but i wouldnt try and get it up on a plane untill you track this problem down, it may be running lean.
Have you cleaned the carbs?
Try a drop test on each cylinder to see if you can isolate it down