12V Electrical Wiring

[scrobo]

I recently decided to replace the frail 16g wiring that was falling apart in my boat. Someone donated a bunch of 12g house wiring to me. Someone else donated a 6 blade fuse box. Finally, I received a donation of an old car stereo unit. (Nothing like a free repair job says I) I was wondering if that is a good replacement wire for my boat electronics? I have one line going to a fuse box at the front... then all twisted together and head out to different things (light switch, bilge pump, etc.) I have some questions I was hoping someone could answer fo me.

1) Is the 12g (yellow) house wire ok to use for the 12V boat wiring?

2) If I install the fuse panel is it ok to buy and install a gang-box of switches that have breakers?

3) Is it a good idea to fuse the bilge pump? Or should I leave that one on a direct line to the battery?

4) Should I consider a breaker for my starter wires?

5) Does anyone else have a stereo in a 14' runabout? Is it worth having or is the engine too loud to use it? It's a JVC deck with an AUX input so you can hook an iPod up to it... No skipping CDs Doesn't matter if you can't hear it though.

Everything I do in the boat runs off one large battery (Group 27 Starting and Deep Cycle Battery - 730 marine cranking amps, 100 amp hours, reserve capacity of 160 minutes) and are currently wired up directly to the battery.

 

[Lyle29464]

Re: 12V Electrical Wiring

1. Do not use house wire. A. It's single strand hard to work with. Easy to fail and not "tinned" and the insulation is not good for a boat. google tinned wire marine

2. Use a supply box that is made for the marine environment. Google

3. Fusing the bilge pump is required by the USCG and other regulators. I and many old timers do not do this. ( pass the popcorn)

4. No need to mess with a breaker to the starter.

5. I like a marine grade Head unit. I would not put a car radio in it.

6. I like a duel battery setup. Some times it is not practical in a 14 footer. ( maybe carry a jump pack?)

Not even household Bathroom paper will work on a boat. Try to think "Marine" when you buy anything. Hardware, sealant, everything.

7. Take a boating course. Good luck.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: 12V Electrical Wiring

I recently decided to replace the frail 16g wiring that was falling apart in my boat. Someone donated a bunch of 12g house wiring to me. Someone else donated a 6 blade fuse box. Finally, I received a donation of an old car stereo unit. (Nothing like a free repair job says I) I was wondering if that is a good replacement wire for my boat electronics? I have one line going to a fuse box at the front... then all twisted together and head out to different things (light switch, bilge pump, etc.) I have some questions I was hoping someone could answer fo me.

1) Is the 12g (yellow) house wire ok to use for the 12V boat wiring?

2) If I install the fuse panel is it ok to buy and install a gang-box of switches that have breakers?

3) Is it a good idea to fuse the bilge pump? Or should I leave that one on a direct line to the battery?

4) Should I consider a breaker for my starter wires?

5) Does anyone else have a stereo in a 14' runabout? Is it worth having or is the engine too loud to use it? It's a JVC deck with an AUX input so you can hook an iPod up to it... No skipping CDs Doesn't matter if you can't hear it though.

Everything I do in the boat runs off one large battery (Group 27 Starting and Deep Cycle Battery - 730 marine cranking amps, 100 amp hours, reserve capacity of 160 minutes) and are currently wired up directly to the battery.

In many instances I try to make my responses an "education" and people get up tight because they think they are being belittled in one way or another. So as not to misinterpret my response, consider this an education and not a lecture.

1) Just because the stuff you are given is free does not make it right for the job at hand. No - house wiring is NOT ok to use. You can of course but it is hard to deal with because it is not flexible, terminations are difficult to deal with and it is way to0 heavy gauge for most circuits. Look at it this way. 12 gauge wire is capable of carrying 20 amps. No item in your boat will draw more than 7 - 10 amps. Therefore, stranded 16 gauge wire is the right size to use on most circuits. Even stranded automotive wire is fine if you boat primarily in fresh water.
2) If you add a fuse box, why would you need a switch panel with breakers? Wire the LINE side (input) to the switches from the fuse panel. The LOAD side (output) of the switch goes to the device that switch controls. You don't have two fuses or breakers in your house wiring and you don't need two in a boat either.
3) Every circuit in a boat, car, truck, airplane should be circuit protected. Doesn't matter where it gets it's power. Again, since the switch for the bilge pump is at the helm, get power from the fuse panel. If you have an automatic bilge pump, the AUTO line goes directly to the battery but it too should be fused.
4) How much money do you have? Have you ever seen a breaker or fuse on the positive battery cable on your truck, car, or any other boat? The answer is no and reason is that breaker must handle a surge current that can be 100, 200 or even 300 amps depending on the motor. Those breakers get spendy and are simply unnecessary.
5) You can install any stereo you want provided you don't go nuts with huge amplifiers, etc. Will a marine head unit last longer than a car unit? Certainly. But how you mount it, where the boat is stored when not in use and a bunch of other factors will determine if this is practical. Think protection from moisture, condensation, rain, sleet, snow, splashing etc., as to life expectancy. I've used car stereos in several boats and properly installed and protected they are in working condition when the boat is sold many years later.
6) For the accessories you have the battery is fine provided the engine charging system is working normally. If you make short runs but you sit anchored or drift fishing for long periods, charging the battery with a portable charger, or adding an on-board charger of 5-6 amps would be beneficial. You simply plug in at the dock or at home if power is available.

Here is a typical wiring diagram. Ignore the gauges if you don't have them.