14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

[chastburns]

this boat is used to carry 2 adults fishing gear large cooler and camping tent + mis alanese

we lost the prop and a chunck of the lower unit wing so need to replace it the prop that is would a 8-5 from a 6hp be better considering heavy load? boat never got onto plane with the load we carry and honestly dont think engine is in that good condision but im poor and im gonna keep using it.
also while im at it anyone know proper gas/oil mix. been using 32/1

 

[chastburns]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

any help would be appreciated

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

I had a 10' Lowe Lake John which was made for quasi open water with wide beam and high sides....heavy for the length. I weighed 200# plus all the necessary accessories. I had a 7 1/2 Merc that would plane the boat in a heartbeat and run at a good clip using the standard prop.

I don't know what "10hp qd 24b 1963" is. I guess it is a '63 10 hp, no idea as to what brand. The prop that came on the engine is/should be adequate to plane out a 14' semi-V (harder to plane than a flat bottom) with 2 guys and gear. I'm trying to remember the pitches those engines had...had different gear boxes back then so props used today for that hp are probably different. Go to the Michigan Wheel www and you should find a chart that should answer your question.

Mark

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

I had a 10' Lowe Lake John which was made for quasi open water with wide beam and high sides....heavy for the length. I weighed 200# plus all the necessary accessories. I had a 7 1/2 Merc that would plane the boat in a heartbeat and run at a good clip using the standard prop.

I don't know what "10hp qd 24b 1963" is. I guess it is a '63 10 hp, no idea as to what brand. The prop that came on the engine is/should be adequate to plane out a 14' semi-V (harder to plane than a flat bottom) with 2 guys and gear. I'm trying to remember the pitches those engines had...had different gear boxes back then so props used today for that hp are probably different. Go to the Michigan Wheel www and you should find a chart that should answer your question.

Mark

I assumed you had an OMC product....Johnson or Evinrude. iboats sells michigan props, but not for your engine....had no listing. So I went to the Michigan Wheel www and looked up your prop. Seems they only had one prop for that engine and it was 8P and 8.25 dia. Usually in general purpose fishing engines of that size, prop pitch is not real critical so they list and carry a general purpose prop which usually works ok, again considering the size of the engine. You can take it from here.

Mark

 

[steelespike]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

The 63 uses 24:1 fuel mix 5.3 ozs per gallon 32ozs per 6 gallons.
With the age of the motor it may just need new coils.Remove one plug wire at a time and see if it will run.Do you adjust the high speed fuel mix for the best speed?
If the motor is running that slow at; $4 a gallon if you or a friend can do a tune up
you may actually save some money.Bisides using twice as much gas your probably going half as fast.That setup should run 15-18 mph.I think you could save gas based on your present speed probably about 9 mph. Be sure it is pumping water.It should come out of the relief hole on the leg.
Without knowing your present rpm you shouldn't change props.An 8 X 5 would be small in a 6 and really small on a 10.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

this boat is used to carry 2 adults fishing gear large cooler and camping tent + mis alanese

we lost the prop and a chunck of the lower unit wing so need to replace it the prop that is would a 8-5 from a 6hp be better considering heavy load? boat never got onto plane with the load we carry and honestly dont think engine is in that good condision but im poor and im gonna keep using it.
also while im at it anyone know proper gas/oil mix. been using 32/1

I missed a few things so here's more.

As I recall, having late '50's and early '60's engines, 24:1 Quart of automotive (then...) to 6 gal. was the mix. Now they have TCWIII 2 cycle oil made specifically for the stringent marine environment and high performance engines that operate therein. I wouldn't hesitate in a heartbeat to drop to the current ratio, using that oil (it's what you buy in the WW sporting goods dept or in the marine section of an auto parts store) mix of which is 1 pint to 6 gallons of 87 octane gas. It will greatly reduce your smoking and your plugs will not foul out as often.

While you are there, pick up a can of Sea Foam and add that to your gas (after you put in the pint of oil) at the rate specified on the can. It may smoke for awhile but when you get all that crud burned off that 50 years of 32:1 put there, your engine will run much better.....probably put in a new set of plugs after the first tank of what I said here due to the crud being burned out.

On using a prop from a 6 hp, it probably won't fit and the 10 hp engines of the era used a larger gearbox and all so the 6 hp will be too small if it even fits the hub/propshaft.

Last, you will also need a new prop cap/nut (not really a nut it just slides on and holds the shear pin to the prop shaft), shear pin and cotter pin to hold it in place. Have no earthly idea as to where you will get the nut.....I'd go to a marine dealer that has been in business for say 30 years at least and he probably has one sitting around collecting dust, or has a salvage OB that has one he'll sell you. He will also have the shear pin and cotter pin.....take your new prop with you and he'll know what size you need........also, he may have the 8x8.25 prop you need, possibly a used one in good shape.

Good luck,

Mark

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

Hey Steel, how do you feel about what I said about TCWIII?

I remember back in '65-66 I had a 22 hp Scott Atwater and one day at the dealer I noticed he had two different Scott oils where one was in a 16 oz. yellow can and was 50:1 and the other was in a red can (half the size....8 oz) and was 100:1. Those numbers were unheard of at the time. I don't remember if I ever ran the 100:1 oil....but the point is, the ratio is in the oil, not in the engine as far as I'm concerned....just like running synthetic oils today vs paraffin oils.

I see you are online right now so I'll shoot this out there.

Mark

 

[steelespike]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

I would think long and hard about going to 50:1 the center main bearing and piston pin are not bearings they are bushings.The 64 9.5 is fully jewled and 50:1 mix.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

I would think long and hard about going to 50:1 the center main bearing and piston pin are not bearings they are bushings.The 64 9.5 is fully jewled and 50:1 mix.

Well I guess that's what I get for buying fully jeweled engines.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[chastburns]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

well then somthing is out of tune on this outboard and it is a 1963 evinrue qd-24b 10hp.
yes i have to turn the high idle up to get best performance cuz it wont start with it turned up
when i get new prop i will run 50-1 mix to see but that seems like it will be a decrese in power not a gain

 

[steelespike]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

Did you read any of my posts? Did you do the plug wire test?
The coils on these motors are the weak point.If they haven't been replaced they very likely need to be.There should be hole in the top of the flywheel to check the coils,points etc.
Any cracks or discoloration they should be replaced.
Don't run 50:1 the center main bearing and piston pin are bushings not ball/roller bearings.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: 14' alumium flat bottom 10hp qd 24b 1963 prop size

Don't run 50:1 the center main bearing and piston pin are bushings not ball/roller bearings.

Not viewing for an argument, but the purpose of lubricants is to keep moving parts from touching....doesn't matter what kind of parts, nor what they are made of....actually any moving parts of whatever material. The lube's duty is to provide a barrier between moving parts and to provide that barrier under all load/temperature conditions. That's how you rate them, not what they are separating, but at what temperature and pressure they can keep 2 surfaces isolated!!!!!

Having been born before Pearl Harbor was attacked and taken up an electoro-mechanical background, having been subjected to nothing but worn out cars and trucks growing up because of abuse by their owners, I have spent a life time socially and professionally dwelling in it.

I don't care what you do with your stuff. It's your stuff, you bought it, you maintain it, and you have to live with it or give it off for someone else to do likewise. Lubricants today are miles ahead of where they were 10, 20, 40, 60 years ago. You can't apply the same technology with today's lubricants.

This advice/opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it....unless you can appreciate the technical content.

Good luck.