14ft alum v boat

[00tjwrangler]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

so i was looking at the boat today and i found something that i really dont know how to fix so i took pictures the first one will be 3 little hole from corrosion they are higher up. it looks like the main seal is coming off the transit needs replace and i found a leak below the transit

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

HI tj. Let's see. As far as the three little holes go, there are couple things you can use. The first is a product call jb weld. It's a 2 part epoxy that starts off the consistency of honey and dries hard as a rock. It also comes in a putty form that may also be called "Marine Epoxy Stick/putty". You will be able to see it, but it'll be super strong and can be sanded, painted and machined. As far as the transom is concerned, I would remove the wood from the outside of the boat all together, especially if it's pressure treated, in which case it's actually damaging the aluminum behind it. A nice new solid transom properly installed on the inside of the boat will be fine. The bow eye looks like it broke long ago and someone drilled a new hole in it and used a nail, or something. As you can see, the dissimilar metals have caused corrosion. There's not much you can do, but cut it off and grind it flush. You can install a new bow eye by simply drilling one new hole. You can buy a nice chrome one, or use a Stainles Steel eye bolt with a couple SS washers on either side of the hull. It's ugly, but works just as well. As far as the exterior seam goes, I would clean out whatever filler is in there and seal your interior seams with a product called Gluv-it. You first brush the seams clean and paint it on. It's an epoxy that's the consistency of honey and will fill every nook and cranny, yet remain flexible. You do need to paint it or cover it, however to give it some UV protection. Hope that helps some.

 

[lilpig]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Be sure you use high quality, NON Pressure Treated, exterior grade plywood.

I'm about to do the same with my boat but I'm really curious why you say NON Pressure Treated. Wouldnt you want the Pressure Treated grade so it lasts longer?

 

[bonz_d]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

wrangler and lilpig, the plywood on the outside of the transom is put there to help absorb viberations from the motor and also because many of the older outboard motors have what look like little cleats proturding out from the transom bracket. The plywood also allows those cleats to embed into the wood and helps stablize the mount. As a matter of fact many of the old wood or glass boats used a rubberized pad there to protect the hull from those cleats.

PT plywood and aluminum do not play well together. On the search bar here type in Pressure Treated Wood and see what comes up! Have fun reading.

 

[lilpig]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Never new that. Thanks for the info. You just saved me a bunch of money.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Yeah about 6 years or so ago they changed the formulation for PT wood. It now has copper in it which causes the whole dissimilar metals thing to happen and cause corrosion. I've seen the results and it's definitely no joke.

 

[64osby]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

wrangler and lilpig, the plywood on the outside of the transom is put there to help absorb viberations from the motor and also because many of the older outboard motors have what look like little cleats proturding out from the transom bracket. The plywood also allows those cleats to embed into the wood and helps stablize the mount. As a matter of fact many of the old wood or glass boats used a rubberized pad there to protect the hull from those cleats.

Here is a pic of what happens when the little cleats dig in if there is no backer, wood, rubber or whatever. Courtesy of the PO. It also caused some nice dents that need to be pushed back out

 

[JimS123]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

I have that very same boat, so I think I'm qualified to help. We've owned ours for over 25 years and have run 7 or 8 different motors on her. Now back to the original 9.5. Based on the hull graphics, I would guess that mine is about 20 years older than yours.

First of all, your bow eye is broken. Replace it with a new SS one. Couple of nuts and 10 minutes.

Next, that hull is very susceptible to rib damage - especially with a motor as big as yours. All my ribs are broken and sistered. I wouldn't add a "floor" since it will mask any damage. The metal bottom is easy to walk on.

If you feel the need for more speed.......take an aspirin and forget it! It may be rated for 25 HP, but 18 is all it can safely take.

Forget the steering. Leave it in tiller configuration and take out the console. It takes up too much room and you sit too far forward, making it too bow heavy. Likely that's why it was converted back in the first place. The console was an option, but dealers at the time steered people away from it. The boat is really only 13' long and too short for a console (IMHO).

 

[00tjwrangler]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Thank you jims I already planned on putting a floor in and i figured the steering is to much so its coming out Im going to put the casting floor back in up front and floors through the whole boat also plan on putting couple departments where the consume is it will also ne used as a step for the front casting floor we will be mostly fly fishing out of it but im also trying to figure if i need a gallon of the gluvit if i do the seam and floors and departments

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

You aren't coating the entire floor with Gluvit. In fact I think that would be bad to do because it would probably crack. A quart was just about enough for the rivets and seams in my 18' so it'll certainly do you.

 

[00tjwrangler]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Dont u have to coat the Wooden floor I would be happy if i didn't have to but I dont want them to rot

 

[JimS123]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Thank you jims I already planned on putting a floor in and i figured the steering is to much so its coming out Im going to put the casting floor back in up front and floors through the whole boat also plan on putting couple departments where the consume is it will also ne used as a step for the front casting floor we will be mostly fly fishing out of it but im also trying to figure if i need a gallon of the gluvit if i do the seam and floors and departments

Sometimes plans need to be changed as more info comes in.....LOL.

If you insist on a floor, buy marine grade plywood and coat it with some sort of preservative. Just read the container to be sure it has no copper compounds.

When you design the floor, make sure you install it with wingnuts so its easily removable for a periodic inspection of the ribs. When more than 2 or 3 of the ribs break, the seams will let go soon after. (Ask me how I know....LOL).

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Hi tj. Ez is correct, you only apply the Gluv-it to the interior seams of the boat, not the entire bottom. If you do want a floor, Jim S123 is correct that you can use marine grade plywood to do so. However, it's a little pricey and can sometimes be hard to find. You can also use a high quality, non-pressure treated plywood such as Aruaco brand available at Lowes/HD. You'll then need to seal on all sides in one of two ways. You can either coat in wax-free polyester resin and fiberglass mat, or you can coat it in epoxy, then paint it (for UV protection). You'll probably want to use 1/2" or 5/8" sheets. You can also use aluminum angle as floor supports as well. I like the idea of using wing nuts to make it removable too. Be sure you use stainless steel hardware dipped in in 3M 5200 marine caulk too. Some folks also use aluminum pop rivets to attach their floor to the boat, but then it's on there for good and will not be removable. If space allows, you may also want to add some flotation in the form of closed cell pink/blue foam insulation panels placed beneath the floor. Believe it or not, you can get virtually everything you need except for the epoxy and/or f'glass supplies, from stores like Lowe/HD. However, the epoxy and glassing supplies are available at most West marine stores and other boat supply stores. Do a search here in the forums and you'll find TONS of floor jobs as well. Bear in mind that adding a floor will add weight to the boat which will ultimately effect performance.

 

[JimS123]

Re: 14ft alum v boat

Hi tj. Ez is correct, you only apply the Gluv-it to the interior seams of the boat, not the entire bottom. If you do want a floor, Jim S123 is correct that you can use marine grade plywood to do so. However, it's a little pricey and can sometimes be hard to find. You can also use a high quality, non-pressure treated plywood such as Aruaco brand available at Lowes/HD. You'll then need to seal on all sides in one of two ways. You can either coat in wax-free polyester resin and fiberglass mat, or you can coat it in epoxy, then paint it (for UV protection). You'll probably want to use 1/2" or 5/8" sheets. You can also use aluminum angle as floor supports as well. I like the idea of using wing nuts to make it removable too. Be sure you use stainless steel hardware dipped in in 3M 5200 marine caulk too. Some folks also use aluminum pop rivets to attach their floor to the boat, but then it's on there for good and will not be removable. If space allows, you may also want to add some flotation in the form of closed cell pink/blue foam insulation panels placed beneath the floor. Believe it or not, you can get virtually everything you need except for the epoxy and/or f'glass supplies, from stores like Lowe/HD. However, the epoxy and glassing supplies are available at most West marine stores and other boat supply stores. Do a search here in the forums and you'll find TONS of floor jobs as well. Bear in mind that adding a floor will add weight to the boat which will ultimately effect performance.

Excellent advice for a runabout restoration, but maybe just a bit of overkill for a little 13' "rowboat". Our SN 14R is named "Toy Boat".

If aluminum angles are used for supports, the freeboard will be reduced too much. Really the logical way to do it is to connect right to the ribs. Since the bottom is rounded, a 3/8" ply may be the only alternative since the wood will need to bend to conform tho the angle.

My Starcraft utility was ordered special with a guaranteed-for-life vinyl covered, treated floor. But they didn;t cover the bow section. I made a V-shaped piece to fit it and treated it with a compatible sealer, then coverd both sides with marideck vinyl (Starcraft OEM floor - a perfect match). I used 1/2" and it was a bear to bend it. Had to use a few extra screws to draw it down.