15 Evinrude fuel issue

goblerblaster

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
180
I put the 15 hp carb back on the motor and could not get it to start.

I put the 9.9 carb back on and finally got it to run after pulling it 25 times. Once it got to running , it would run good. This is on muffs and garden hose. If I kill it, it is hard to get to restart.

What I found it that if I pull down on the Follower roller a little, the motor is not hard to start at all. It is like I can't give it enough throttle- because the red lever that engages the recoil starter- locks the recoil so as to prevent pulling the rope. If I pull down on the follower roller a little, it will usually start right up.

I have considered just taking a hack saw and cutting the end off of the red lever to prevent it from enaging the recoil starter. Is there a way to make an adjustment to allow for more throttle to be applied before the red lever engages the recoil starter???
 

OptsyEagle

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
Most likely the throttle cam's are different for the two respective carburetors. In any event you can see the metal throttle cam that comes around and pushes on your carb's throttle roller when you turn the twist grip. That metal cam will have some form of adjustment. My older motors have two hex nuts on the starboard side of that cam that I loosen and then reposition the cam and then tighten them up. Your motor will have something that will allow you to change the position of that throttle cam. If you can, try to get it to engage the carb's roller a little sooner. That should allow you to give the motor more gas for starting, before the neutral safety stop kicks in.

Fine tune it only enough to get it to start well. That cam to roller position also will be controlling your spark timing and you don't want to go too far the other way and mess that up. My guess is if that cam is not positioned well for starting, it is also probably off on the spark timing as well, so if you optimize it for starting you may just be optimizing the spark timing for all the other throttle ranges as well. That may be wishful thinking but in any event the other throttle ranges don't really matter if you can't get the motor to start. Get it starting and then see how it idles and then see how it goes to the other ranges up to WOT.
 
Last edited:

OptsyEagle

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
On my motor (1976 model) the answer is yes and no. The two hex nuts use a 5/16" wrench, however, most wrenches are too thick to get under the flywheel. Very annoying but what can you do. You can sometimes use a thinner pair of needle nose pliers to loosen and tighten them back up. I actually filed down one of my 5/16" wrenches to do the job but you need the patience of a imprisoned felon to file that hardened metal down. It can take a while if all you are using is a standard file. They do sell thin wrenches that would work. The last resort is to remove the flywheel but in your case you probably want to adjust it, then run it and see how it works and possibly adjust it again. You are not doing a standard link and sync where you can just adjust it and it will be good to go. So if I were you I would try to find some way to get at those nuts without removing the flywheel.

Good luck.
 

nazmen1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
39
On my motor (1976 model) the answer is yes and no. The two hex nuts use a 5/16" wrench, however, most wrenches are too thick to get under the flywheel. Very annoying but what can you do. You can sometimes use a thinner pair of needle nose pliers to loosen and tighten them back up. I actually filed down one of my 5/16" wrenches to do the job but you need the patience of a imprisoned felon to file that hardened metal down. It can take a while if all you are using is a standard file. They do sell thin wrenches that would work. The last resort is to remove the flywheel but in your case you probably want to adjust it, then run it and see how it works and possibly adjust it again. You are not doing a standard link and sync where you can just adjust it and it will be good to go. So if I were you I would try to find some way to get at those nuts without removing the flywheel.

Good luck.
What was the final problem and solution, anyone?
 
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