18' 1981 starcraft SS

[Rikkie]

Thanks for the input,thinking about it nothing was go through center of hull what ever was on it or I should say still on it so I'll concentrate on were the supper stuff wasn't the seems,bow and transom and all the patches.do think l should split the gal of gulevit up so I could second coat on a seem it 5 to 1 mix I could split it by weight and measure catalyst it will have by weight also it's just says one lbs.or just hit the seems... heavy?Thanks again I value you your opinion!!!

 

[SHSU]

A gallon will go a long ways. I used the 2lb amount to do my boat. It was enough to hit all the seams and then some.

Pointers:
Don't mix the entire batch in one go. Figure out how to mix smaller quantities. That way you don't feel rushed to get it all done before the epoxy starts to "kick". You can find it on the forums where people had the gluvit kick on them early and they were rushing trying to get it down.

I bought 10 ml and 60 ml syringes to help accurately measure epoxy when I was mixing them. Also used it to lay a very clean bead along the top of the seams with gluvit.

Some have used gluvit on the exterior and interior rivets/seams. I used it only on the interior side of the rivets/seams as when we rerivted the whole boat we did each rivet with 5200. Then we finished off the exterior with Fasco Epoxy paint.

Area of question on if it helps or not is the ribs. Some feel that the gluvit cannot get to the hole to seal it since the ribs is already in the way. Others do it just because. I fall into the side of, I had extra and decided to hit a couple of the rib rivets. It made me feel better even if I know it wouldn't really do anything...

SHSU

 

[Rikkie]

Shsu,thanks for your input on the gulevit l would hate a hole bunch of just go off before I could use it.
did you turn your boat over to paint it.i new I had bad leak some were,and I didn't have anything to do so I started cutting up blocks to get my boat off trailer and it started a snowball that keeps growing

 

[Rikkie]

Watermann, yes I have acupal of projects go but only working on SS right now and I am on low budget but I am having fun and it grate isolation from everyone

 

[SHSU]

Shsu,thanks for your input on the gulevit l would hate a hole bunch of just go off before I could use it.
did you turn your boat over to paint it.i new I had bad leak some were,and I didn't have anything to do so I started cutting up blocks to get my boat off trailer and it started a snowball that keeps growing

Yes, I pulled my boat and turtled her to paint. As for checking for leaks, fill the hull with water and let her sit. You will see where the water is leaking out and circle those rivets. Later when you are ready you can go back and rebuck them to seal.

Recommend doing your leak test prior to doing any other waterproofing. That way you fix all the leaks first and the gluvit and such will just be extra protection.

SHSU

 

[Rikkie]

I was told never put water in boat when it's on trailer,that's what I did to find leaks?Well it's on trailer so I think that's a good idea to find leaks,the floor is still in it for now but I think l should leak check it be for I go much further, really sounds you did a very good on your boat
thanks again for the input

 

[Rikkie]

I was wondering what is the best way to fill unwanted holes on alum boat,I have a lot of then in bow,transom,finals any help would be graet!!!I want something that won't fall out crack thanks

 

[SHSU]

I was told never put water in boat when it's on trailer,that's what I did to find leaks?Well it's on trailer so I think that's a good idea to find leaks,the floor is still in it for now but I think l should leak check it be for I go much further, really sounds you did a very good on your boat
thanks again for the input

There are varying opinions, the amount of water you are going to put in shouldn't be enough to cause damage in my opinion. You are only looking to get enough to cover the seam. I even placed mine on a slope to help reduce the amount of water needed.

Other options people talk about is taking the boat as is and putter her in the lake to test. If I had lived closer to body of water to do this, I probably would have; however, I am over an hour to any body of water I could do it at... So filling her was the only viable option I had.

I was wondering what is the best way to fill unwanted holes on alum boat,I have a lot of then in bow,transom,finals any help would be graet!!!I want something that won't fall out crack thanks

Depends on the hole, how big, below/above water line, etc... Many different options have been used

Aluminum Blind rivet with 5200
Aluminum solid rivet with 5200
Bolt and nylon locknut with 5200
Welding
Making a patch of aluminum, back buttering with 5200, and then securing with aluminum blind rivets/SS Bolts and nylon lock nut.

SHSU

 

[Rikkie]

Shud I don't spell well but the auto correct is kill me,I took off a prices of carpeted wood off bow and it look like swiss cheese,and the finals were downriggers were mounted

 

[Rikkie]

Shsu,I thought I would send other pic

 

[Rikkie]

Shsu,putting her in the lake only let's you it leaks not ware it's leaking from well mine is sitting on blocks so going to the lake is out I feel go about blocking and 2 jacks and engine hoist hooked up so I'll add water watch thanks again

 

[Watermann]

Yeah these old boats and people with a drill seem to be a bad combo.

On those areas you posted, I'd use JB Water Weld 2 part stick epoxy. Mix correctly, make small wads, press into hole from the bottom leaving a mushroom buck tail on the underside and bulge up on top. Sand it smooth. The Jb WW sands really nice too.

 

[Rikkie]

Watermenn,Thank for your hlep,I guest it will hold under tough boating condition

 

[Rikkie]

I filled some scratches with with marine in weld,one of them has a dent,and I am wondering what would be used as filler?I know someone has fixed a small dent

 

[Watermann]

Yeah I've not had any hole repairs done with the JB WW fail, I tested them on scrap AL and you had to use a hammer to beat the plug out. Sand the bucktail surface with 220g to scratch it up and a quick wipe with a solvent to clean it is all the prep I've done.

I've used the Marine Tex for dent filler as well but it's pretty spendy. You can slowly add xylene to the JB WW and knead it into a paste that can be used as a filler or use the regular JB but sanding it is tough.
https://www.iboats.com/shop/marine-tex-epoxy-putty-imf-40394.html

 

[Rikkie]

So JBmarine failed for patching holes,I did a pretty goog grind on transom,filled holes with polyurethane file and topped with JBmarine weld,so I should knock that stuff out go with marine tex?.
the jb weld won't be good bow and dash?Thanks for your help

 

[Watermann]

Bow and dash I would use the JB water weld 2 part stick epoxy as I mentioned. Most times epoxies fail is due to improper mixture and temps, so yeah nothing you can do except remove it best you can. Been there and done that, most of us have.

 

[Rikkie]

My testing for leaks ldont have enough water to test side seems but lam not thrilled to go above floor to cover seems,can any let me know if I should if add more water and get floor wet

 

[Rikkie]

Water leak testing

I am putting water in hull to test for leaks,idont have enough water to test side seems,it would mean getting floor wet I don't think that's good thing can anyone help answer that question

 

[Grub54891]

Don't ever fill the boat with water! The weight could damage the trailer, or damage the hull. The best way is to launch the boat and look for where the water is coming in. You can even leave it on the trailer for this test. If you have a leak under the floor, you may have to remove it to see where the leak is.
Are you getting water inside when sitting still or under way? What kind of boat?