| [SIZE=-1]30. What is the coverage of your epoxy when sealing plywood?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]There will be slight variations depending on how heavy it is applied. Generally speaking, a gallon of epoxy will yield 250 square feet. Therefore a typical 4'x8' sheet of plywood would require about one quart(32oz) to seal both sides.[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]29. How much epoxy do do I need for saturating my fiberglass?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]This is a very common and complex question. Each type of fiberglass saturates resin at different ratios. Below is a brief summary of the saturation rates for different reinforcements.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Chopped Strand Mat[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]: Approx. 2 pounds of resin for 1 pound of mat[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Fiberglass Woven Cloth:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] Approx. 1 pound of resin for 1 pound of cloth[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Biaxial (1708,1208,1808)[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]: Approx. 1-1/2 pounds of resin for 1 pound of biaxial[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]Carbon Fiber and Kevlar Cloths:[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] Approx. 1 pound of resin for 1 pound of cloth Your technique for application and experience will determine the exact amount needed but the ratios shown above provide a good starting point. For reference, 1 gallon of epoxy weighs about 9 pounds.[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]27. I'm building a canoe/kayak and want to see the wood through it, which epoxy do I use?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]Our 635 Thin Epoxy Resin with our 3:1 Hardener has proven to be the most popular System for this application. Our 4 and 6oz [/SIZE][SIZE=-1]cloths[/SIZE][SIZE=-1] will wet out completely transparent when applied properly. You may have noticed an amber tint to our hardeners. When mixed with the resin and applied in thin coats over wood they will dry clear.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]For better long-term performance of the epoxy follow our cleaning steps([/SIZE][SIZE=-1]see answer #13[/SIZE][SIZE=-1]) and then apply a topcoat of UV protected marine varnish.[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]10. How do I protect my epoxy from UV deterioration?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]As none of our epoxies offer UV protection a top coat is required. The best protection is to use a quality paint. If your project calls for a clear finish we recommend a marine varnish or a clear urethane. Careful attention should be paid to watch for oxidation of the epoxy. Fresh coats of the varnish/urethane should be applied as a preventative measure to keep UV protection effective. The epoxy must be completely cured and free of blush, which we will discuss next.[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]11. What is blush?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]Blush occurs when the discharge of carbon dioxide reacts to moisture in the air during curing. It presents itself as a greasy film and is easily removed by washing the part with warm water and a clean rag. More specifically, blush is an amine carbonate residue produced by the reaction just described. This residue must be removed before top coating or if fully cured, before re-coating with additional epoxy. Blushing is more commonly seen in stiffer, faster curing epoxy hardeners and more pronounced in cool, high humidity conditions.[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]12. Do your epoxies blush?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]The 3:1 and 4:1 systems do. The 2:1 system is completely non-blushing.[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]13. How do I clean/remove the blush?[/SIZE] |
| [SIZE=-1]If your epoxy has blushed it must be cleaned before applying additional epoxy or a top coat finish. Follow the below steps. 1. Wash the surface of the epoxy with warm water. Using a clean rag, scrub the surface until the greasy/waxy feeling is removed.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]2. Lightly sand the epoxy with 220 grit(or similar) sandpaper. This creates an etched surface that will allow for the maximum mechanical bond possible between additional layers of epoxy or between the epoxy and primer/paint top coat.[/SIZE] [SIZE=-1]3. Wipe down the surface with Acetone or Denatured Alcohol. Again, use a clean rag to do this. Cleaning with a solvent will remove surface contaminants and slightly tack-up the surface for better bonding.[/SIZE] |
