1953 Evinrude 15 Hp 15012 - conversion to a fuel pump

[64osby]

That Rude in the pic is a 1956, 10 hp. The cover came off a junk yard motor that was an early 60's as I recall.

You could compare the cover from your motor to a '56. If they are the same there is a cover that will work. I just don't know the part # at this time.

 

[Crosbyman]

No Title

managed to upload this one

it is actually a B&S pump side mounted on my 5.5 .. I made a small triangular mounting assembly with one shorten
leg of a angle bracket drilled and bolted to the back cowl bracket . The pump body is bolted on the assembly with bolts and nylon thread block nuts . I used the air pressure nipple with the modified air channels behind the intake plate (check valve removed and one air pressure channel plugged out with hard setting cement)

 

[mark in new jersey]

I did some research....looks like the first time a pump-mounted bypass cover was used on a 15HP (aka 18HP) was 1960. The bypass cover is part# 307477.

The question is "does that absolutely, for sure fit into my engine, which presently uses a 203253?"

I have a 3-barb pump on the way to me, but if I knew for sure that a 307477 cover was dimensionally identical to a 203253, I'd begin the hunt to track one down.

Anyone know?

 

[oldboat1]

You cannot cross walk part numbers from either your upper or lower cover. The upper cover on motors with pumps has a larger flange, and of course is drilled and threaded for the pump. It's going to be a different animal.

However, the gaskets for upper and lower covers on later motors are the same (probably yours too). There used to be a dedicated gasket for the upper cover on fuel pump models, but no longer. As the gaskets are the same, you also know the upper and lower ports on the motor are the same. Similarly, if you want to compare '53 ports and covers with a '60 model, you might see if you can match up or crosswalk the gaskets.

The 15s, 18s and 20s from the '50s into the '70s are sister motors. I would shop for a top cover from a '60s or '70s model, and take a chance (can look at a parts diagram first, for some added assurance). Ebay can work, but if you have an outboard boneyard in your area, a hands-on search is the better way to go. AOMCI may work for you too (post a want ad). JMO.

 

[mark in new jersey]

Here is one I have done.

Hi Trim,

I just received this pump...as shown in your picture above... from eBay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121437514737?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

It came with no instructions at all.

Can you tell me which barb is which?

The pulse is clearly "7 o'clock"....I can see the connection to the bypass cover.

The other 2...let's call them "3 o'clock" and "4 o'clock"....which is "fuel in from tank" and which is "fuel out to carb"?

Thanks!

Mark

 

[HighTrim]

To determine do the suck/blow test!

So......

If you can suck, but not blow through a barb.......it is the outlet to carb.

If you can blow, but not suck through a barb......it is the inlet from the fuel tank.

If you cannot suck, nor blow (or you can do either, depending on your reference) ....... it is your pulse.

 

[mark in new jersey]

I mean no offense, but based on that test, yours is mis-plumbed in the photo.....the middle barb (on top, 4 o'oclock) seems to be the pulse.

Can you confirm or clarify?

 

[Crosbyman]

it would not work if it was not installed correctly

 

[HighTrim]

Yeah, if I remember correctly, I did plumb that wrong for the picture! Was a few years ago I did it, so cannot remember the details, but follow the suck/blow test and you wont go wrong.

 

[mark in new jersey]

Things are working well....

The Briggs (Mikuni) pump didn't lend itself very well at all to mounting on / near the bypass covers. No matter how I oriented it, at least one port wasn't pointing in a good way. The "in" and the "out" orient 90 degrees apart, and it just seemed like one was always pointing in a bad direction no matter how I set it. The pulse can be redirected by taking the cover off, but the in & out were not cooperating.

Then it hit me: "Why mount it there at all?" So I didn't.

I cut up a piece of .062" aluminum, drilled a few holes, and...voila! Eureka!....mounted perfectly with all 3 ports pointing more-or-less where they ought to. I had to loop the "in" over the forward mount arm, but I don't see that being an issue. Best of all, the cover fits on with complete clearance. I don't see any reason why this won't work just fine!

Of course, I don't yet have a tank, and the engine connector hasn't arrived yet....but I'm confident that this setup is a winner.

Thanks to everyone for their advice!

 

[mark in new jersey]

So...a follow-up question occurs to me.

I was all set to run out an get a shiny new plastic one-hose tank, when this thought hit me: Why can't I simply take my pressure tank & hook up my new fuel hose to the tank's fuel barb, and leave (what was) the pressurization barb unconnected? The pressurization barb will now act as the required air vent (something modern tanks altogether lack...thankyouverymuch CARB and EPA).

All I need is a priming bulb in my new hose, and I should be just fine using my old pressure tank....right?

Sure seems simple enough to me. Am I missing something? Is there some reason this won't work?

 

[oldboat1]

want to ask why you are not just using the pressure tank system, but resisting....

think offhand you might be able to hook a hose directly from the pump input to the pressure tank fuel barb, and get that to work -- believe the "air" barb at the tank could act as a vent, as you suggest, but in any case could loosen the tank cap. If the tank's primer pump is working, that should be all you need. (assume the pressure feed at the engine was blocked off as part of the fuel pump conversion).

 

[mark in new jersey]

I converted the engine for 3 reasons:

First, although I rebuilt my tank twice, it still doesn't completely hold pressure. As the engine ran, the tank would leak gas & vapor from several areas around the seals & gaskets. While I agree that the whole "2-hose is dangerous" thing is overblown, I didn't need / want a tank that didn't seal.

Second, with "modern" plumbing, I can get any replacement component I might need just about anywhere. With the 2-hose system, that isn't the case.

Last, any tank problems that might arise in the middle of a lake are guaranteed to result in an engine that won't run. I don't need that!

 

[oldboat1]

Yup. All fun.

 

[tjandrews]

No Title

For what it's worth, this is the conversion I did on my '56 15hp Johnson, back in 2009. The cover came from a junker '58 Gale-built 12hp Sea King. The Sea King had a gas tank mounted on top and didn't have a pump, but it was ready for a conversion.

I converted this motor after it was given to me because I had only one pressurized tank, and that was being used by my '54 10hp. I chose to convert the 15 because the bypass cover I had wouldn't fit on the 10. It runs like a top, plenty of fuel. Pushes my 14ft aluminum boat at around 20mph on the St. Lawrence River.

 

[HighTrim]

Sorry, what you are planning wont work,,,,,,,well, the way you describe anyways. There are 2 check valves in a pressure tank. 1 for inlet, 1 for discharge.

You can drill out a vent if you like I suppose. You don't need a bulb, as you have a built in pump in the tank to fill your carb bowl with the button on the tank.

Some believe that button pressurizes the tank, but it does not. All it does is send fuel to the carb as a bulb does on a 1 line tank system.

I would just buy a tank though, and sell your pressure tank to someone that could use it. Just my 2 cents. Im sure there are many guys out there that would trade you.

 

[oldboat1]

yeah, don't think I would drill out a working check valve, but interested to hear if you get it to work as a regular tank while playing. Another option is to keep the tank for future reference -- can add to value when you sell your motor. Probably better to get it sealed up, but a market for them working or repairable. Take good care of the two line connectors -- also getting scarce.

Pressure tank air supply port on the powerhead gets sealed off as part of conversion to a fuel pump, as you probably did. A golf tee fuel line works, if you haven't done it yet.

 

[mark in new jersey]

I have a 1/8" NPT plug in the pressure port of the manifold. That's done.

I suppose I'll buy a tank....but most likely an older OMC 1-hose tank. These new ventless EPA tanks suck.

 

[oldboat1]

Try a fuel line direct from the old tank fuel barb to your fuel pump, crack the tank cap and see if you can prime and run. Think you can get a Moeller tank with a screw-type vent in the cap, not sure about Attwood (have an Attwood tank with a ventless cap that I use for a trolling motor, and it seems to work fine).

 

[1946Zephyr]

Hey Mark. Cool to see you back with your original classic. I see a lot of the good old guys here were of help. Enjoy that classic