1954 15hp Evinrude doesn't even sputter

[Rwed]

Got it from fb marketplace. Gave it a go over. REbuilt the carb. When I pulled it. nothing, just turns, not even a sputter. threre appears to be gas in the motor when i took out plug to see.
I hear coils are usually to blame, but i peeked under the recoil when i took it off, and they appear in good shape.
Also, how complicated is the coil replacement? i'm new to motors, and don't wanna jump too many steps..
Also, i'm not even 100% if it doesn't spark, but when i pulled starter, my friend couldn't c the spark, also, it was not dark
I've already posted this Q in another thread, but it was not labeled ignition problems

 

[F_R]

Spark should jump a 1/4" open air gap. If the coils have not already been replaced, they need to be. Dirty breaker points are the next most common problem. All this stuff is accessed by removing the flywheel You need a 3-bolt puller to get it off and a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 40-45 foot pounds when you put it back on. And something to hold the flywheel as you are torquing on it.

 

[Rwed]

is this what i need f_r? also, thanks for the info on oil line.

 

[Rwed]

While I'm here, One of the tiny springs that are in the recoil that pull out the pawls is missing, and while i found a similar spring, its not working quite right. and i can't seem to find it online, or in a local small engine shop. And, there's a nut on top of recoil, that is used to hold the hub that holds the springs in the center, is there a trick to how tight it needs to be? in other words, my recoil is working, but i want it to work better.

 

[F_R]

is this what i need f_r? also, thanks for the info on oil line.

Yeah, that should work. Depending on what is in the kit, you might want to substitute some Grade-8 bolts that thread into the flywheel. Cheapo bolts may break. But I don't know what they supply with the kit.

 

[F_R]

While I'm here, One of the tiny springs that are in the recoil that pull out the pawls is missing, and while i found a similar spring, its not working quite right. and i can't seem to find it online, or in a local small engine shop. And, there's a nut on top of recoil, that is used to hold the hub that holds the springs in the center, is there a trick to how tight it needs to be? in other words, my recoil is working, but i want it to work better.

I know what you did wrong. Everybody does it the first time. The equalizer spring must be pre-assembled up on the shoulder of the spindle before inserting the spindle into the rope sheave. And stay there till you get the screw installed in the center. Screw & nut are to be tightened all the way tight.

 

[Crosbyman]

for ignition…

go visit utube ….lots of good videos on OMC coil replacement point adjustments with a volt- ohm meter etc...

basically an easy job after the flywheel is popped out

work clean careful with small parts keep all wires tucked away from the rotating shaft

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ga1Cjymj6ms&feature=youtu.be
http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Outboard Motor Related/OMC outboard related articles.html
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ignition-Co...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[boobie]

Edit....

 

[Rwed]

went ahead and ordered new coils. going to take it apart once i get the bolt puller. was hoping i didnt have to do it. as far as the springs on the recoil, i'll just have to take a pic and show. thanks, meanwhile.

 

[F_R]

Yeah, we all know about those little pawl springs, part number 202155, and the outrageous price they want for new ones. Many of us have a few kicking around in our goody boxes too. Somebody may even have a couple they would part with and send you a PM.

Keep in mind the equalizer spring that I posted about earlier. It won't work right if that is not assembled correctly.

 

[lindy46]

Go to AOMCI.org and post a free want ad. Someone will have them. I got some there but don't remember from who. They cost me $5 each.

 

[Crosbyman]

and seems…….. I read somewhere you can make actually make these springs with…. piano wire

never tried it myself


here is a good video on OMC ignition rebuild … not that hard really
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7apmhzGGQeg

with a VOM timing adjustment and clean points you will be all set

 

[Rwed]

ok, here's the pic, but i think u already nailed it.. so, that spring is very expensive, huh, it's $7 aand up on ebay.. that's wild.
Next follow up Q. So, i need to take that central hub off and in set that spring, right? but then u said i need to tighten nut all the way. but if i tighten it, then it don't recoil. it gets stuck and spring is not strong enough to pull the rope back in.
I'm going to figure out that equalizer spring first, see how that works. thanks again for all the advice, guys. need to get some bolts, that bolt puller kit didn't have the size i needed, hope ACE has the size.
I'll be back for more advice

 

[RCO]

The puller bolts are 1/4" NC, very common, but make sure you buy grade 8 bolts. Standard grade 5 will usually break off before you get them right enough to pop the flywheel loose. On your recoil, make sure to clean all the old grease and oil off so it can retract freely.

 

[Rwed]

ok, i know what u meant FR about the equalizer spring now... at least i think i do.
Now, this pic hs me putting a pawl in place. this is the right spot for that pawl? bc i think, maybe my pawls are not shaped 100% right, bc, they do not fit where they are right now wo me bending it a little bit. the pawls wanna tuck themselves between the equalizer spring mousing and the rest of recoil. i might've even bent them myself when i was putting it back together 1st time, before i knew about equalizer spring. so the Q: is the pwl in the right place? if yes, can i bend them with pliers to make them fit there?

 

[Rwed]

rco, got the bolts at ace, popped off no problem. it looks like im the 2nd person to look under the flywheel 1st, being the manufacturer.