1954 15hp, Evinrude unexpected throttle issue

[Rwed]

oldboat. If i didn't set the points correctly it might do the trick, the video explained to me that top was the part where you set the points to. After it stops raining, i'll go out and double check the points. but they open up and close beatifully when i checked them. I have continuity from the spark plug boot all the way to the coil with multimeter. and like i said, when i spin the flywheel to check for spark, there's def spikes in voltage. i ordered new points set, bc it comes with condensers. in case they are to blame. as far as top and bottom wires, they are correct, i triple checked them. like i said earlier, everything seems right, just no spark when i spin the flywheel.

 

[Rwed]

checked the points, they weren't off but a hair's hair, but still no fire.... i already ordered condensers and coils, so when i get them this week, i'll just put them on, to see if that's the issue, i just don't think it's mechanical, there's continuity from boots to shaft on both cylinders, points are cleaned and set, coils are set as flush as i can get them wo rubbing ... i'll just hope either coils or condensers are to blame.

 

[Rwed]

ok, so, yeah, i got spark, it was too weak to jump the gap. i'm going to get new wires, and try adjusting coils again, other than that i'll wait for new coils and new condensers. but at least there's fire, i ended up removing the spark plug boot, and grounding wire directly, then i could see the sparks as i spunt the flywheel. weak sparks, but sparks.

 

[oldboat1]

believe you want 1/4 to 3/8" measured with a device like the one pictured above. Not sure what gap you are describing.

The resistance value I mentioned above should tell you if the coil is good.

 

[Rwed]

confluence of things: i'm getting new wire, new plug boots, new coils, and new condensers all getting here this week.
My problem was i couldn't get the voltage to jump the plug, no matter how flush i got, i think if i replace just the coils, and the wire, it should do the trick, i'll keep other parts around.
i was using just the wire end to ground against the motor while i spun the flywheel to test if there was any life in the parts, it did spark. so once i get my wire in , and coils, i should get it going

 

[Rwed]

as far as coil resistance, i was getting around 6 Kohms each. but like i said, i have enough parts in mail to rebuild the whole mag plate if i have to

 

[oldboat1]

Hey -- hope you get it running. Keep the old coils for spares (sounds like they may be OK).

 

[Rwed]

old boat. i need a vindication.need me to prove to me that i can make it run. if i replace everything, its still $300 motor, which is a good deal, plus i learrned
also, i hope u r right. maybe just the connections.

 

[racerone]

It is important for points to open at the correct time.-----Using a meter and the timing marks on the plate and flywheel gets you the strongest spark.----Spark will jump a 5/16" gap when everything is lined up correctly.

 

[Rwed]

when i set the points, i really spent time on it. i made sure to triple check, and find the nigh point on that oblong thing (what is it called?) i made sure to set .02 with feeler gage when the points were at the highest, like i said, i get the spark with my old cut up spark plug wire on the engine block, but i'm getting all new wire in, and i'm gonna need to remove the mag plate anyway, to get to the bottom of the coils to replace the wires. and figures, since its gonna be my boat motor, i'll just put new coils in, while i'm here. i'm gonna keep the other ones anyway, as i have a 15 hp johnson as well. just waiting for the wires and coils, last 2 things in the mail, on their way got plug boots, and point replace kit yesterday

 

[oldboat1]

Maybe a little late, but might save some reassembly time -- need solid core plug wires, not carbon wires. OD is 7mm.

 

[Rwed]

So, my coils didn't come in. but my old coils are good. I rewired everything, and changed condensers. Lol, actually, I just got one cylinder, and wanted to share the good news it was either condensers, or bad wiring, connections. I was seeing that spark in broad daylight. Going to rewire second plug, and, i'm sure the spark will be there as well

 

[Rwed]

got too excited too early, couldn't replicate the spark on top cylinder wire... i'm gonna get some new spark plugs, something just don't seem right. like i get the shocked everytime if i test it with my finger on both wires.

 

[Rwed]

OK, 1st. Thanks, everybody.
I got fire on both plugs. putting it back together now.
Here's what was finally the issue. the points were not exactly parallel to each other, must have been last guy, i noticed after i took of my glasses and got real close. so i sanded it down, till it was as flat as i could, , set the points, and immediately got fire on top, bottom was already firing

 

[Rwed]

well, here's good news: it sparks like a champ, and recoil works perfect (even with my $1.19 True Value spring hack for the pawl spring) can't get it to stay running. i fear my membrane pump might need new membrane. didn't have time to take it apart tonight. i got it to fire, and even to run briefly. quick segway, don't have picks yet, but it appears this motor has aftermarket ad-on. my 1956 johnson, has 2 fuel tank lines, one for air. one for fuel, this evinrude has one line plugged in coming from front of the motor where you'd expect air from (cam?) to feed into the fuel tank air line, yeah, that line is plugged in, and on the side of the motor it has, what looks like the add on membrane pump, which turns this into a single line fuel tank motor. which was kinda why i liked it, rewind, to where i was trying to fire it up. my best luck came from chocking it, pulling cord, unchocking it, and pulling again, that would result with a happy starting noises, and would die right away. best i got was about 3 seconds of good running.