1955 fastwin 15hp exhaust plate etc

[Bruce N]

Have pulled power head to replace shifter shaft and disassembly was simpler than I expected.<br /><br />I plan to replace gasket between power head and exhaust housing as you guys suggested. Any other things I should do or replace while here? I notice shifter shaft has an O ring- I will replace that. Drive shaft has O ring too which I will replace.<br /><br />A few more questions:<br /><br />What is the exhaust plate for? The one on my motor has two downward facing tubes attached to it and the whole assembly just plops into the exhaust housing loose with nothing holding it in place. Does it rattle when motor is running?<br /><br />When trying to remove one of the 5 slotted cheese head machine screws which help hold exhaust housing onto the power head, I broke one of them flush with the mating flange of the power head. Any suggestions? Drill it out and get a thread insert? Should I try this myself or bring it to a shop? If I bring it to a shop will it be expensive?<br /><br />Love the motor so far, or at least working on it. And love the excuses it gives me to interact with you guys.<br /><br />Thx much<br /><br />Bruce

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1955 fastwin 15hp exhaust plate etc

I think I know the part you're talking about - it's like a plate with two short tubes going straight down right? It ought to have a single screw securing it in place - might be long gone.<br />I belive it limits the ammount of exhaust going out the exhaust idle relief hole & water outlet on the back of the midsection. No gasket for it.<br /><br />Breaking screws is typical for old outboards. You'll get really good dealing with them if you keep wrenching. Seeing that there's no stub left, you're best bet is to drill it out. Forget about "EZouts" or other extractors unless you want to learn about electrostatic discharge machining. Punch the screw and drill it very carefully on centre with about a 1/8" bit. You want to be dead on centre. If it goes off, I use a dremel with a mini end mill to recentre the hole. Then work up with larger bits until all that's left of the bolt is the tread. If you're lucky, with a pair of needle nose pliers you can pull out the thread like a spring. Sometimes you need to encorage it with a tap. If that doesn't work out, get an appropriate heli-coil kit (heli-coils are stainless) and drill & tap for that.<br /><br />If that sounds a like too much trouble, get a shop to do it. A lot of machine shops have a nominal fee for extracting broken bolts.