1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Yup, good plan. The ones that come shiny don't need it, have sealer built in. Don't put any sealer on the intake side gaskets at carb, etc..

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Yup, good plan. The ones that come shiny don't need it, have sealer built in. Don't put any sealer on the intake side gaskets at carb, etc..

10-4.

I took the plunge and started paint removal off powerhead. So far, 8 cans of carb cleaner and lots of brushing with steel brushes. I have 50-60% of the paint removed entirely and very thin in most of the other areas. Is this good enough or do I have to get 100% bare metal?

 

[nwcove]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

looks good to me. just make sure there is no residue of any type when you hit it with primer.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Seems like a difficult and expensive procedure! lol 8 cans!

Expense of the carb cleaner aside, it is not great for you health wise either.

Future, you could probably get someone in your area to soda blast if for much cheaper. And much easier. And much safer to your skin.

Paint remover might have been easier as well.

Make sure you use a self etching primer for the first couple coats. You are on your way! Keep us updated on how it goes.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Seems like a difficult and expensive procedure! lol 8 cans!

Expense of the carb cleaner aside, it is not great for you health wise either.

Future, you could probably get someone in your area to soda blast if for much cheaper. And much easier. And much safer to your skin.

Paint remover might have been easier as well.

Make sure you use a self etching primer for the first couple coats. You are on your way! Keep us updated on how it goes.

Yea...should have had soda blasted with other parts. I thought they couldn't/shouldn't do the powerhead unless I disassembled...which I did not do. I got the carb cleaner 1.97/can at Walmart, so only $16 so far. Full face respirator and long sleeves for sure.

Since paint remover is thick and gooey, I thought carb cleaner would be better for not leaving so much mess behind. It really wasn't that bad. Just would be very arduous task to get 100% bare metal.

Can I start priming now..self etch first...or do I have to get closer to 100% bare metal before I prime?

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

SE primer, fill primer, first coat of seahorse green laid down. I like it. Sorry for the glare, had to hold a lamp on it to take
a decent photo. I'll post up some more pics soon.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Here are the finished pics. I have a couple of other questions, but I will post those separate next.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

My vacuum cut out switch has no electrical wires going to it. It is just connected with a fuel hose to the proper barb on the intake manifold. Is that all there is to it?

 

[pro-crastinator]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

yep. thats it.
3/16"

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Looks really nice. There should be a wire running from the 3/8 nut on the front center of the cutout switch up to one of the points connections. I believe one cylinder's coil should ground through the cutout switch when high rpm's occur.
You did a nice job. That will be a nice motor when you get it all finished.
Will this be a tiller model and you just haven't installed the tiller yet?
JBJ

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Looks really nice. There should be a wire running from the 3/8 nut on the front center of the cutout switch up to one of the points connections. I believe one cylinder's coil should ground through the cutout switch when high rpm's occur.
You did a nice job. That will be a nice motor when you get it all finished.
Will this be a tiller model and you just haven't installed the tiller yet?
JBJ

It is a tiller motor...not yet installed. Painted and ready. I still have to do the engine cowl too. Mine is bent up from previous owner and doesn't seal around the perimeter. I'm on the look for a replacement cowl.

I'd sure like to see a diagram of how that wire goes from the cutout assembly to the points.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I can send you a picture tomorrow.

I likely have a spare cowl or two as well.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

I can send you a picture tomorrow.

I likely have a spare cowl or two as well.

Bump on the picture of the vacuum cutout wiring. Thanks!

Got the tiller handle installed, put a coat of wax on her and almost ready to put it in a barrell for maiden start up. Maybe within next week or so. I'll post a few pics and video.

 

[BigB9000]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Don't put any sealer on the intake side gaskets at carb, etc..

Wait, why not?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Sorry forgot all about that! Just been so busy haven't had time for anything. It is pretty simple to wire though. Just as the diagram shows.

I personally don't think it would hurt anything to put sealer on an intake side gasket, but just the general rule of thumb. Maybe worried about sucking globs into the crankcase? Regardless, they don't need it unless the mating surfaces are badly damaged and leaking air, leaning out the mix. I have never encountered a motor that I had to put sealer on the intake manifold, carb, etc....

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Sorry forgot all about that! Just been so busy haven't had time for anything. It is pretty simple to wire though. Just as the diagram shows.

I personally don't think it would hurt anything to put sealer on an intake side gasket, but just the general rule of thumb. Maybe worried about sucking globs into the crankcase? Regardless, they don't need it unless the mating surfaces are badly damaged and leaking air, leaning out the mix. I have never encountered a motor that I had to put sealer on the intake manifold, carb, etc....

Which diagram?

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

So, I tried to start her up tonight. First pull, she came to life....for about 1.5 seconds. I pulled her over about 30x and got 4-5 that she started for just a second. I checked spark and only getting spark on bottom hole.

I put in new points and condensers. Coils were not original and not cracked, so I didn't change them. I had a little trouble getting spark early on in testing, but it got better with cleaning the new points. I am going to crack her open again and swap the coils and test. If spark moves, then just going to go ahead and buy new coils. If swapping coils doesn't move spark, then I will clean up the points again...but I think they are spotless and set right on.

Close, but no cigar.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Well, I am still fighting spark. Intermittent on top and none on bottom. I realize that is opposite of what I said in last post. I am honestly not sure if I was wrong last time or if spark moved. I think I just mis-identified wires last time.

Coils, condensers and points all new. Points gapped at 0.020 reconfirmed.

Still intermittent spark on top plug wire and none on bottom. A friend suggested I check to make sure the armature plate is grounded to the engine block, which I haven't done yet.

I'm more than a little befuddled on why I can't get spark with complete new ignition components.

 

[jb93]

Re: 1955 Johnson RD-17S 25hp Restoration

Armature plate grounded. It was a little wobbly, so I put 4 punch marks in the armature ring at 12, 3, 6 and 9 oclock. Didn't seem to improve wobble, which was not much anyway - but I am reaching for straws here.

Cleaned the points with 1000 grit and contact cleaner. All electrical checks that I can do says coils and condensers are good, which they should be as brand new.

Put her back together for the umpteenth time and still intermittent spark top wire and none on bottom. I decided to put plugs in and hold them against the block and lo and behold they spark every time.

So...my spark won't jump 1/4" gap but it is sparking. Is that good enough to continue with trying to start again?

 

[Slipperylies]

I have just received a RDE-17 and it has all of the wires removed, there is no harness at all can you send me any pictures you have that could help me install a start and kill switch and any necessary safety pieces.