1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

[dombarb]

Fellas
I am using a automotive gear puller and I have pulled out one of the 1/4 -20 threads attempting to remove the flywheel. I have hit the puller a good firm rap. I am soaking the threads with cutting fluid. I have retapped the thread to 5/16 course. Heat it? Coca- cola soak? any suggestions to get the stinker off? Problem #2 The seal below the impeller has worn a grove in the shaft any thoughts on repair? Or replace it?
problem#3 There is appreciable slack in the rotating assembly of the lower cylinder, If the crank is appreciably worn, what power heads are interchangable? I am thing ahead, I will appraise if I can get the flywheel Off. Never again an ebay special ! I even knew better..dah... Thanks guys Dom Costabile

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

You need a harmonic balancer puller(3 point puller), with substitued grade 8 bolts, threaded in 7/16 of an inch, and parallel, to remove the flywheel. To remove the bolt, a little pb blaster and an impact gun, or a flywheel holder, will be needed.

Dont forget to torque it to spec on re install, ensuring the taper is clean and dry.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

like this

 

[itstippy]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

For that seal under the impeller that has worn a groove in the driveshaft, the answer is yes, replace the seal. Check the other lower unit seals too - you may be better off to just order the whole lower unit seal kit. They are not very expensive. iBoats sells Sierra brand and so do NAPA stores. If the groove is very shallow you can emory it smooth. Usually the groove is too deep though, and you can't get the rubber lips of the new seal to make good contact with the driveshaft to keep oil in and water out. Then, the trick is to put a new seal in there in such a way that the lips ride on a slightly different (unworn) part of the shaft. The Sierra kits I've used have come with two skinny seals to replace the thicker original. You stack them like poker chips in the hole, the bottom one with the lip facing down to keep oil in the lower unit from getting out, and the top one with the lip facing up to keep water out of the lower unit. By luck or design, this arrangement avoids the worn groove on the driveshaft. I read a post long ago by one of the oldtimer gurus that he puts a shim of some kind under a OEM single, fat replacement seal to make it ride higher in the hole so the lips ride higher on the driveshaft. I do not remember what he used. Perhaps he just didn't drive it in fully seated. Anyway, he said he gets a good seal that way, avoiding the worn groove. He was a guy that knew what he was talking about.

 

[dombarb]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

Thanks guys the loud pop was music to my ears! We got it thanks for the advise. The seal solution sounds neat and not to expensive.Good news, the play was in the wrist pin. Both the brass pin bush and the piston are worn. Any reccomendation for sources for piston replacements? Is this a common source of wear in this engine? Appreciate your help. Dom Costabile

 

[F_R]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

Is it the piston that's worn or the rod, or both? Anyway, the piston is part number 277402. Try http://www.sea-way.com/index.htm

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

itstippy, that's great advice on the seal(s), I have not heard that before... thanks...

 

[dombarb]

Re: 1956 15 hp evenrude problem flywheel removal

FR
The bush in the connectiong is worn and the wrist pin rest for the pin in the piston is loose (worn). Is this common in this engine ,I have not seen this in the automotive world. thanks again for the Help. Dom