1956 Evinrude Setting Point Gap

fastwin15

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Jan 25, 2015
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hi there.
ive been reading posts on setting the point gap on these old motors and they all talk about rotating the engine until the points separate a bit... but i can't rotate my engine more than a quarter rotation. am i missing something or do i have another issue (dare i even ask)

thanks
 

boobie

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With the flywheel on will the motor turn over normally ?? Does it run ?? Or what ??
 

fastwin15

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Jan 25, 2015
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bought it without a starter or fuel tank/lines and began replacing ignition parts before i tried to pull it. don't know if it will ru but previous owner said it had last run a couple years ago. i rebuilt the carb and replaced impeller and oil and all parts i've looked at so far look like they were in pretty good shape, but this is my first motor. i currently have the lower unit off (having trouble lining everything up to put it back on...) don't know if that makes a difference. i'm learning as i go. did i just learn a lesson in not replacing parts until i have a better understanding of the condition of the motor, cause i hate learning things the hard way!
 

F_R

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The shaft should rotate a full 360 degrees. There will be portions of that rotation that resist rotation due to compression strokes of the pistons... IF the spark plugs are in. If the plugs are out, it should rotate freely. If it doesn't, there is something terribly wrong.
 

Michawilden

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Apr 4, 2015
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If you replaced ignition parts, chance is that one of your coils now hits the flywheel. Try to move them more inwards. The fact that your lower unit is off doesn't affect the rotatability of your flywheel.
I hope that the coils are the fault. Other causes can be that you replaced the sparkplugs with plugs which are to long, or you might have rust on the cylinder sleeve which prevents the piston from sliding freely.
Good luck
 

fastwin15

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flywheel is off. i haven't put it back on yet because i was going to set the points. no spark plugs in.and i definitely can't turn anything more than half a rotation. so am i rebuilding this whole engine??
 

fastwin15

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so, i am realizing now that if i put the flywheel on it does in fact turn freely.. without the flywheel the magneto doesn't turn a lot which makes sense because the spark plug wires are attached. 'Cadet' would be a huge promotion for me guys...i'm quite green when it comes to mechanics.
but how do i set the points based on the flywheel rotation when the ignition system is hidden when the flywheel is on? i'm still missing something...
 

F_R

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You don't set the points with the flywheel on. You turn the shaft until one of the points' fiber rubbing block is at the highest point of the breaker cam that opens them. That usually is when aligned with the flywheel key. Once you have established that you have it in that position, you adjust the points so there is .020" gap between the contacts.

Then you rotate the shaft till the cam is holding the other set of points open as far as it can, and adjust just like the first set.

Set the flywheel on (loose) and rope it over to see if you have spark. If everything looks ok, you are ready to button it up. Be absolutely sure the shaft and flywheel tapers are clean and dry, and it is a MUST that you use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to proper torque. Have you told us what motor you are working on? I know you said 1956, but what horsepower? Torque spec varies accordingly.
 
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gm280

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So is there any point where you could turn the crankshaft around 360 degrees? because with the plugs out, I can't see how you can't turn it but 90 degrees and it stops. If you can't turn the crank completely around over and over, you have other problems awaiting to be found yet. And YES you have learned your first lesson. Before even starting to replace any part(s) on any new-to-you engine, make sure it at least is free to turn over AND do a compression test to see if it is workable without rebuilding it first. You could have bought those parts and there could be some internal issues that will cost a lot of time and money to correct... We don't know either because we are not there and can't see what you're working with... Post more info about turning the crank over if you can.
 

Crosbyman

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so, i am realizing now that if i put the flywheel on it does in fact turn freely.. without the flywheel the magneto doesn't turn a lot which makes sense because the spark plug wires are attached. 'Cadet' would be a huge promotion for me guys...i'm quite green when it comes to mechanics.
but how do i set the points based on the flywheel rotation when the ignition system is hidden when the flywheel is on? i'm still missing something...

??? so the flywhell turns and Not the mag plate... is what I read here ....well that is the way it is suppose to work

the flywheel rotates the crankshaf not the mag plate !!

see/read attached same basic method

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/johnson_magneto.htm
 
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pro-crastinator

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Dec 12, 2013
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It is nice to have the bottom end attached when doing the ignition work.
Makes it simple to move the crankshaft by turning the prop with motor in gear (forward OR reverse irrelevant)
I didn't read where you put the bottom end back on yet.....
 

fastwin15

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Jan 25, 2015
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thanks for all the help guys. F_R - my motor is the '56 evinrude fastwin 15hp. being a rookie, i'm not sure i'm even using the correct terms here. so i decided just to post a video on youtube so you guys can see what i'm dealing with. your help is greatly appreciated. thanks for your patience too!
here's the video link: https://youtu.be/b2jf50YWzKM
 

nwcove

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as mentioned, it looks as tho your coils are set out to far and binding on the fly wheel. also get those coils wires tucked back away from rotating parts or they will chafe through in short order!
 

F_R

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Yeah, if the flywheel rotation is actually causing the throttle link to pop off, the magnets are banging up against the coil laminations. Note that where the coils sit down on the armature plate, there are machined edges on the plate. The coils need to be aligned with those machined edges.

By any chance, did you or somebody else have the armature plate removed? If so, was the retaining ring installed right side up? Flat side goes up. If upside down, there will be excessive slop & wobble to the armature plate, causing the coils to hit the magnets, among other problems.
 

F_R

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We are all assuming the motor hasn't tossed (broken) a connecting rod. Do both pistons move up and down as you rotate the flywheel? I also assume you haven't checked the compression, especially since it won't rotate. It's always nice to know if a motor is in serviceable condition before throwing parts and money at it.
 

gm280

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Oh yea, after watching the short video, you have the coils set too far out from the center and it is hitting on the magnets under the flywheel's outer edge...it seems anyway. So as previously stated, loosen the coils and align them with the cast edges and no further out. And also make sure everything is tight and even the wires tucked down as far as you can so the spinning flywheel doesn't hit them and wear through stopping everything again. One you have those coils repositioned, then set the point gaps to 0.20" at the highest opening point with the lob (cam) on the crankshaft. And do both the exact same way. That should get things set to run. But then do a compression test and post those compression readings back here... :thumb:
Alinment.jpg
The yellowed ovals are the areas that have to be set flush with the aluminum raises and not further out. Your magnets under the flywheel are hitting yours because there are set incorrectly... Hope this helps explain it... JMHO!
 

pro-crastinator

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Look at the "ends" of the coils with the flywheel removed.
betchya that the paint is scuffed from contact with flywheel.... - coils should not touch flywheel.
sure looks like they are in the video.

as a post script, if the bottom end were attached, you would be better able to move the crankshaft without the flywheel blocking your view. Also could (presumably) show yourself that you can spin her around without "hanging up" on the flywheel.
 
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fastwin15

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Jan 25, 2015
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thanks to you both. i haven't removed the armature plate but who knows what was done to this motor before i got to it. now that you mention the coils being an issue i can see some wear on the edges where the flywheel is rubbing against it when i force it through. so once i adjust the coils properly i should expect flywheel to be able to spin freely around with the crankshaft right?
 

fastwin15

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Jan 25, 2015
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you were right i moved the coils in and she turns round and round! i can see the pistons moving thru the spark plug holes. i marked the spots on the coils with marker to make sure there wasn't any subtle rubbing and it looks good. thanks guys. now to setting the points - with the flywheel on i can't see how things are moving underneath, so can i tell when the points are supposed to be at the peak/lowest by where the piston is that i can see thru the plug holes?
 
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