1956 Johnson 10hp Restoration

[gabe33366]

I've recently acquired a 1956 Johnson 10hp from a family member. The motor has been sitting in an attic for 50 years. It was taken in for a tune up probably 30 years ago but I do not know the extent of what was done. Before I can even try to start the motor I've encountered three problems that need to be taken care of. I also plan on repainting it once I have it in a reliable running condition. This motor is going on my red 12ft tinny I repainted a while ago so it should look great.

First is the fuel tank. I already know the pressure tank is bad so I will need a gasket set and new fuel line. My question is if it is worth rebuilding the tank or should I just convert it to a fuel pump?

Second is the pull start. When I pull the rope it does not engage and the flywheel does not move. I have yet to take it apart but any advice on what to look for would be helpful. I suppose I could always just tie a rope around the flywheel, correct?

Third is the lower end oil. When I removed the screw only a small amount of dirty water came out. I bought some new oil from walmart but I'm not sure if its adequate because it has a translucent light brown color rather than the dark black that I've seen around. It also isn't specifically made for outboards, though on the back it says it can be used for outboard motor gears.
This is what I bought:
http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/gear-oil-sae-80w-90-gl-5-946-ml/6000111967010

Anyways thats enough questions for now.

Thanks

 

[nwcove]

you will need to asses the fuel tank and weigh your options whether to rebuild or replace or convert.
the pull start could be just gummed up with old lube and dust, will need to be removed and inspected. be carefull taking it apart if you end up doing that, the spring can be dangerous if it gets away from you!
80w90 is all i use in my vintage motors, you can go with the higher end outboard oil that deals with a bit of water intrusion better if you feel you need to. the only dark black gear oil ive ever seen is well used and its time to change it.

 

[racerone]

If water is getting into the oil you will need to install a seal kit, including the o-ring on the shift rod.--Certainly less effort / expense that looking for a used lower unit.--It will need a new water pump impeller as well.--Check to see if spark will jump a gap of 1/4" or more .--Likely a good idea to remove the flywheel to inspect the duel ignition system on that motor.

 

[Vintage Boat Guy]

I would suggest taking the recoil off and checking to see if the coils are cracked through the viewing hole on top of the flywheel. If they are I would suggest replacing the condensers and points while you are replacing the coils. It would also be a good idea to take off the carb and clean it out. Your recoil may just need to be oiled and greased, if it doesn't catch your dogs or ratchet may be worn.

 

[gabe33366]

So I pulled off the pull start assembly, the spring appeared to be working properly so I oiled it and reinstalled everything. I gave it a pull and it finally caught onto the flywheel until it got stuck. I took off the pull start assembly once again and turned the flywheel with my hands, it would go around a few rotations either way until it gets stuck.

Any ideas whats causing this? Do I have a seized engine? Would it be worth taking off the front plate (not sure what its called) to take a look inside the cylinders?

 

[F_R]

Goes around a few times then gets stuck??? If it were less than one turn, I'd say internal engine disaster. But let's not jump to conclusions. Sounds like there may be something loose under the flywheel. Or a busted gear in the lower unit. More troubleshooting is required. Start with the flywheel, then remove the lower unit (you were going to do it anyway, right?

 

[gabe33366]

Is there anything I need to take precaution with when removing the flywheel so that it gets aligned properly? Or does it only go on one way?

Edit: My bad, the flywheel doesn't actually turn a few times as I originally posted. It can only do half a full rotation.

 

[Rick.]

There is a keyway so no worries. Make sure you tarque the nut when re-installing flywheel. You may need a puller to get the flywheel off. Best of luck.
Rick.

 

[gabe33366]

I couldn't get the flywheel off but somehow in my fidgeting with it unseized, now it moves freely as it should, I think. Should the prop spin with the flywheel when in neutral?

 

[gabe33366]

Okay I could use some help with the tank.

I have the type with the glass bubble for reading fuel amounts, it sandwiches the rubber gasket; how is it removed? I would assume that it pops out but I don't want to break it. Also the tank has a fair bit of rust on the inside, does this have an effect on the chemical composition of the gas or is it only the physical sediments that are of concern? What should I do to clean it if or should I let it be?

 

[tomhath]

Can you turn the prop when it's in neutral? If not then it's still in gear. It it turn but feels stiff there might be enough sticky old oil in there to make it rotate it a little when the flywheel turns.

You need to clean out the tank or it will clog the fuel filter and carburetor. Take the gauge and connector off the top, fill it with some old nuts, bolts, nails, whatever- then cover the hole and and shake it for a while. Someone suggested bungee cording it onto the rear wheel of a riding mower and driving around for a few minutes.

If you don't have a pressure washer you can take it to a coin-op car wash and use one there to get it cleaned out.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Regarding the tank: fuel pump. estimated cost: $25 and an hour work. simple simple simple.
Tank refurb, IF it can get cleaned up, the process will consume tons of time and cost a heckofa lot more in sweat, and knots in your stomach than the $25 mukini fuel pump.
When I got my 56 Big twin, I was gung ho to retain the original tank. It took a little time, but I came around and saw the light.

That said, a lot of guys use the pressure tanks and love em.

Best of luck.

 

[Greg O.]

I am old school and enjoy using the pressure tank, so it is up to you whether to convert to a pump or not. As for water in the lower unit, a few drops of water is not uncommon in these old motors. Oil is cheap, and as long as it isn't excesive, I just change the oil once in a while, depending on how much water is getting in the gear case. I have re sealed motors and still get a little water in. I think it might be from the wear in the shafts. If you live in a freezing climate, be sure all the water is drained before winter and fresh oil put in. Many of these old outboards, OMCs, as well as other brands have frozen and cracked the gear case because they had to much water in them. Have fun with that motor. In my opinion this series of motors was the best Johnson ever built. I have a 57, and a 58. The 57 is my favorite, and idles so slow, I can almost count the number of times it fires. And it puts my 14 Starcraft on plane very nicely.

 

[gabe33366]

Okay so I replaced all the gaskets in the pressure tank. Filled it up with about a gallon of gas, added oil, and then shook it around. I took off the cap and heard the pressure hissing out. Then I pressed the primer button and gas leaked out. I thought this was strange considering their brand new gaskets. Anyways I plugged it into the motor and gave it some pulls, I took off the cap to check pressure only it didn't hiss. So then I put the tank on a ladder higher than the motor in an attempt to make use of gravity. After a few pulls I noticed some fuel in the settling bowl, after some more pulls blue smoke came out of the exhaust. Then I gave up. Could the card settings be preventing it from starting? If so, what is a good base line to start with?

Also before anyone asks the coils are new and in good condition, and the spark plugs spark.

Any ideas?

 

[nwcove]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...oards/307224-top-secret-file-updated-8-1-2012

 

[Greg O.]

The pump on the tank does not pressurize the tank. It only pumps fuel to the motor. Where was it leaking fuel? Did you get a complete rebuild kit for the tank, or just the gasket between the tank and the pump assembly? Also did you clean or replace the points, and set them at .020 inch? Is the carburetur getting fuel, or is it gummed up with old gas varnish and dirt?

 

[gabe33366]

I have the tank with the plastic primer button, it leaked around the button itself. Yes I replaced all the gaskets. I haven't touched the ignition system because I couldn't get the flywheel off. Does gas in the glass bowl mean the carb is getting fuel? Also isn't the blue smoke a sign of some sort of ignition? Is it possible their isn't enough gas in the tank?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[AlTn]

try goggling..duckworks magazine... max wawrzniac...antique or obsolete outboard articles...his articles on pressure tanks, carbs, ignition systems,gearboxes, water pumps, etc. will help you understand the different systems and how to maintain them