1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

bigballerg

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:facepalm:rebuilt carb because wouldnt idle so followed forum examples etc.. thought I did everything correctly, but seems I screwed something up bad... Now, neither of the adjustments have no effect on engine... turn high 1 1/2, or 1000 turns does nothing to engine for both adjustments... frustrated as all hell...
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Does it start? Will the low speed needle seat when you thread the needle in?

Are you using the dials or just turning the needles? If dials, are the packing nuts overtightened so that the needles are not even turning?
 

Joe Reeves

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Tell us exactly what the engine is doing! The following is the proper adjustment procedure IF the carburetor was reworked properly.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Also to note that motor has a removable bushing that the low speed needle threads into. You have to tighen down the packing nut enough to keep the bushing from spinning, yet not so tight that the needle will not turn. There is a happy medium. Then when tuned you can further tighten down the packing nut.
 

nwcove

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Does it start? Will the low speed needle seat when you thread the needle in?

Are you using the dials or just turning the needles? If dials, are the packing nuts overtightened so that the needles are not even turning?

i've also seen cases where the dials were pushed to far onto the needle , then the set screw tightened. which made the dials spin free of the needle.
 

bigballerg

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

well thanks for the quick responses!! really do appreciate it!!! Who ever rebuilt carb before did not include packing washers? So, in my rebuilt kit there were a couple sponge like washers that I figured needed to be PACKED in a tight space... Needless to say, just got back from lake and It ran like a champ... NOW, have another issue with gear cable putting in forward, neutral, reverse... will go in neutral and forward and barely in Neutral at that... havent snooped around forum yet... still celebrating the victory of idling motor :)
 

F_R

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Will it shift manually at the engine without the remote cable connected? It sounds to me like the inner wire in the cable has been broken and somebody reattached the end to the too-short wire. ----OR---- the cable end(s) have slipped on the wire. Either scenario is commonly found.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

If the problem persists with the cables disconnected, take the shift rod coupler window cover off the leg of the motor so you have access to the shift rod coupler. Remove the bottom bolt and ensure the detent in the shift rod is perfectly line up with the hole in the coupler, then install the bolt.
 

bigballerg

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

yes, it shifts properly without the cable attached... It looks like about 3ft back or so from the lever where cable attahes someone must have done something to the cable because its tightly wrapped with electrical tape... must be an extension I guess... the cable seems short to me, but who ever hooked up cable before must of had it working properly before? Can I extend a pc of cable like they did or do I need to replace entire piece?
 

nwcove

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

replace the cable! ( it is your brake line in a way)
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Cables are cheap. Measure it and order from the dealer, they will get it to the length needed. Not something to mess with.
 

bigballerg

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Re: 1957 35hp Big Twin Carb Needles no effect on motor.. HELP

Will do! Thanks all for the help!!! I bought a 1965 Starcraft with this 1959 35hp Big Twin for $325 and was trying to keep all the costs down and doing myself. With a forum like this, I had a lot of confidence doing myself. Now, need to convert the pressurized tank to single line. Just dont like the pressure tank idea... Ordered the parts and am following another post on how to get this done as his system is exactly like mine. post (http://forums.iboats.com/engine-fre...-2-line-pressure-1-line-fuel-pump-205628.html) Only question I have in the change is that I am to tap a couple holes and drill out the middle one completely (for vacuum pulse). I am assuming the fuel pump (15765 Fuel Pump - Johnson/Evinrude 438562) has a hole or something in the back that goes over this hole I will be drilling out. Wont drill until I see there is actually a hole. The pics in the post only show front view of pump and not back.
 
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