1957 7.5HP Fleetwin (7522), Running a tad rough

[Crosbyman]

if you ,measure infinity (open) recheck coil resistance directly on the coil's high voltage pin just in case the wires and broken or booth prick pin is oxydized .


high voltage may still be apparent ..or weak and still jump across a break or oxydation . in any event if you are going to dig in and use this motor for years to come may as well change the plug wires ( 7mm metallic stranded copper wire from your local Bike shop) . if ok reinstall booths and pin pricks . I generally strip 3/16 inch of insulation and slide the exposed copper wire under the top layer of the spring clip then cover it with a dab of grease

 

[lindy46]

Spark will still not jump 1/4". Will jump 3/16" with a snappy blue spark though.

Did you clean the new points with acetone to remove the oily film they seem to come with from the factory?

 

[Bwana Don]

Looks like magneto parts have all been replaced. Clean and set the points, then concentrate on the carb.

I erred on the side of caution and did a full tune up, minus coils. Probably could have just cleaned points and timed. It's done and the impellar too. Just need to bolt together.

Next is carb rebuild.

 

[Bwana Don]

Did you clean the new points with acetone to remove the oily film they seem to come with from the factory?

NO! Will do that. Thanks.

 

[Bwana Don]

if you ,measure infinity (open) recheck coil resistance directly on the coil's high voltage pin just in case the wires and broken or booth prick pin is oxydized .


high voltage may still be apparent ..or weak and still jump across a break or oxydation . in any event if you are going to dig in and use this motor for years to come may as well change the plug wires ( 7mm metallic stranded copper wire from your local Bike shop) . if ok reinstall booths and pin pricks . I generally strip 3/16 inch of insulation and slide the exposed copper wire under the top layer of the spring clip then cover it with a dab of grease

Replaced wires. The only thing that was not replaced was the coils. Plugs, points, condensors, wires. Coils are green, look new.

 

[oldboat1]

Spark is weak. Check coils. Rework points as above. Make sure the connectors in the boots contact the inner core of the wires. Make sure the magneto is wired correctly (Facing a coil, its condenser and points will be on the right.) Crosbyman's pic with the bad coils show the correct wiring.

 

[Bwana Don]

OK let me bring you up to speed. Yesterday it probably hit 40 here in Detroit. I had bought a 55 gallon plastic barrel for $20. Cut the lid off and I'm using it as a test tank. So I ran the motor. It smoked so bad I shut it down. Took ten times to get it started too. Ran rough again.

Things I did:
I did a tune up, points, condensors, plug wires, spark plugs. impeller AND rebuilt the carb. ultrasonic cleaned it to. I even set the timing using timing bar I bought from Fran Robb. With the wonky multimeter (which seemed fine at the time)

Things I did not do:
Replace coils or test them. My free Harbor Freight multimeter went wonky on me. I have since bought one off of Amazon to replace the wonky one. I have figured out the scale (goes in 200 instead of 100) and tested some brand new coils I have for another motor.

Clean point. It was all back together and throwing a hot blue spark 3/16". So i rolled the dice.

Get fresh gas. I know, sloppy. I have since dumped 2 gallons of the bluest gas into my Ford minivan. I added fresh gas in the van too. I have since mixed a fresh batch of 16:1 but have not tried it yet.

Questions:
1) Impeller. Does it matter which way I put in the impeller? By that I mean the curl of the fins, CW or CCW. what if I put it in backwards? will it straighten itself out direction wise? There was so much smoke I couldn't even see if it was pumping.

2) Magneto: The mag base had shims around the crank probably because it was worn. is this ok. I've seen them on Ebay for $30 new. Should I buy a new one?

3) Throttle cam: where should the starting position be? I set it so it was just touching at the start position. Read the manual and don't remember seeing it anywhere. Will look again.

Things I'm a gonna do:
Mix new 16:1 with a quality TCW3 oil (done)
Pull the old coils (which look new) and ohm test them, probably replace them no matter what.
Alchohol the points
Put it all back together carefully
Time it again
Pull the power head and insure the water tubes all go back into the right holes. The tube came out with the lower. Felt like it went back into the right place but.....only takes a few minutes to recheck.

Sigh
Bwana Don
pics to follow.

 

[Bwana Don]

Shims around crank/magneto

 

[Bwana Don]

Lower and impeller

 

[Bwana Don]

New $11.00 multimeter

 

[racerone]

You put the water tube into the grommet in the exhaust housing BEFORE you install the lower unit.

 

[Bwana Don]

You put the water tube into the grommet in the exhaust housing BEFORE you install the lower unit.

I suspected this. Will correct. Thank you.

 

[oldboat1]

Surprised to see shims around the shaft at the magneto plate. If there was a wobble, I wonder if the assembly was correct. Maybe the retaining ring was installed upside down (flat side should be facing up).

 

[Bwana Don]

Surprised to see shims around the shaft at the magneto plate. If there was a wobble, I wonder if the assembly was correct. Maybe the retaining ring was installed upside down (flat side should be facing up).

I took it apart tonight. Something is not quite right. When I get a minute I'll post some pictures.

 

[Bwana Don]

Here is the view after mag plate removed.

 

[oldboat1]

It looks to me like the retaining ring may be upside down (the square notch would be on the bottom of the ring). Remove the armature plate support and check -- flat side of the ring must face up (tapered side down).

 

[racerone]

There is a factory " slinger " around the shaft.----All appears to be normal here.

 

[Bwana Don]

A picture with rings removed.

 

[Bwana Don]

I'm confused as to why someone felt the need to wrap shims inside the mage plate/block area (hope I'm being descriptive enough). See picture below in case I'm not clear.

 

[Bwana Don]

Any way on to the coils. The current coils say Germany on them. Check 6.38 Ohms on teh 2000 scale. 0.0 ohmsacross the leads (primary coil?)