1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

[tmise]

Pulled the lower unit off to replace the impeller. Old impeller looked to be in great shape for sitting so long. Was very tight when sliding it over the drive shaft spline. Actually had to tap it to get it to go over it. There were some burrs on the spline that I filed down. The new impeller had the same problem and had to tap it also to get it to go on. Once it got past the spline no problem. Anyway the copper water tube came out with the lower unit when I pulled the lower unit off. Is there a hole or something up inside the casing that this goes into? I'm sure there has to be, I see a very small hole up inside there next to the shift rod but it looks like its to small for the copper tubing to fit into. Guess I need to remove it from the lower unit and try to slide it in there then put the lower unit back on right? Also when I bolt the lower unit back up isn't there a gasket that should go between it and the housing?

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

According to the diagrams that I copied online, there is a lower and an upper grommet for the water tube. There wasn't an upper on the tube when I took the lower unit off and sure don't see one up inside the casing anywhere. Also looks there is a seal that is supposed to go on between the lower unit and the casing. Would appreciate any help on this, Chris are you out there anywhere?

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Should be a grommet up there, similar to the grommet on the water pump housing. It won't pump water properly without both grommets in place. No seal between the lower unit and the exhaust housing. Just bolt it up.

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Thanks for the reply Lindy46. The impeller kit I ordered only came with one grommet, think they would include both upper and lower!!

 

[Crosbyman]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

just to confirmmm my 7.5 also has a top and bottom grommet ... both identical with side nipples to lock in place

if your old pump grommmet is still soft maybe you can use it on top of the water tube...

or buy a new one while your in there doing a colonoscopy

 

[F_R]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Pull the tube out of the pump housing and insert it into the upper grommet (lubricate it first). It would be nearly impossible to hit the hole in the upper grommet if you leave the tube in the pump and try to do it that way.

Now about those splines. Something is causing them to wear. That something most likely is lack of lubrication. There is a groove around the splines for an o-ring. If that o-ring is missing, water gets into the splines in the steel crankshaft, causing rust and extreme wear. Given enough time, the splines will completely rust away out of the crankshaft and you will be dead in the water. . Along the same topic, the crankshaft bore could be rusted where the o-ring is supposed to slide in, which will chew up a new o-ring, defeating the effort. If that is what you have, a powerhead removal for cleaning & de-rusting the splines is in order. Actually, I used to have a home-made reamer that I fabricated to scrape them out without removing the powerhead. In any case, the splines are to be lubricated with a good water resistant marine EP grease.

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Having a heck of a time trying to get the lower unit back in. It's about an inch or less from butting up with the casing, turning the flywheel very slow trying to get the splines in top of shaft to line up but not getting it. I greased the splines and replaced the o ring. When I turn the flywheel the shaft isn't even trying to move. Should I go ahead and hook the shift rod back up now, was going to wait till I had everything bolted back in place and was going to save that for last.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

No I shift into forward, moving the coupler up and out of the way until you are all bolted up.

Now, follow Franks advice. Put grease on the end of the water line, then install it into the upper grommet first. Do not push it all the way up tight yet, so you have a sufficient amount of it hanging down to get into the lower grommet. Grease the lower grommet and end of the water line as well. Also be sure that you do not get grease on the TOP of the driveshaft, only on the splines or it will not fit.

Now, slide the gearcase up, align the water tube with the lower grommet, and push it up. Since it is in gear, slowly turn the prop clockwise with one hand while pushing up on the gearcase. It will slide right up when things are aligned. Put in a couple bolts to hold it.

Now shift slowly into neutral while holding the shift rod with a pair of needle nose, guiding it into the coupler. When the detent is perfectly aligned with the center of the hole of the coupler, install the bolt. Now shift through the gears, and turn the prop after every gear to ensure it locks in gear when it should, and turns smoothly in neutral. If it does, you are good and install the remaining bolts to hold the gearcase together.

Some slide up easier than others, dont get discouraged, she will go.

EDIT: For safety reasons disconnect the spark plug leads before doing this. I know it starting is a long shot, but stranger things have happened.

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Great advice guys!! I did slide the water line all the way up into the upper grommet but could see the lower end going into the lower grommet. At least that was the way it looked but possible it didn't line up. I will pull it back of tomorrow and use your advice on that. Will also check for burrs on the spline again. When I removed it the first time spline was dry, no grease, but didn't notice any signs of rust either. There was no o ring either so who knows. Will try it again tomorrow, anxious to get this outboard fired up!

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

I went with the advice to not push the water tube all the way into the upper grommet and that advice worked, the first try! Now here is the new dilema, very simple to get the shift rod into the coupler. When I tighten down the bolt and shift the rod slides right out like there may as well not even be a bolt in there! I've tried using the needle nose pliers while in neutral and lifting the rod into it, have tried doing it in reverse so the coupler is down as far as it can go. Nothing is working and the bolt threads are starting to look a little rough, sure don't want to strip out the coupler, help!!

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

I removed the upper bolt to see how the upper rod is inside the coupler. Looks like the groove is inside the coupler a lot further than I can get the bottom rod to go. If I move the bottom shift rod towards the water tube, the tube is pretty much right up against the rod, wonder if its causing the rod to bind or something not allowing it to be perfectly vertical? I know I'm just grasping for solutions but never thought this would be this hard to do. All I need to do is get this back connected and will be ready to try and fire it up.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

There is a detent (groove) cut into the top of the lower shift rod. That detent MUST be PERFECTLY aligned with the bottom hole of the coupler. Get a flashlight and slowly adjust the shift rod until the curve of the detent matches the curve of the hole in the coupler. Then install the bolt.When tight, no way will it come out.

The water tube could be throwing off the shift rod, but if it fit into both the upper and lower grommets, it should be ok.

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Thanks again Chris, I decided to try it one last time before calling it a night and low and behold it worked!! Used a pair of offset needle nose and it seemed to work better go figure. Anyway tomorrow I'm going to try and see if it will fire up. Should I screw the low speed all the way in then back out 3/4 turn and the high speed all the way in then out 1 1/2 turns?

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

You actually have it reversed. The low speed is about 1.5 turns out from gently seated, the high is 3/4 turn out from gently seated.

Then fine tune on the water.

You're getting there! Let us know how it goes.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

I forget your previous posts, have you ever checked compression on this motor?

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

yeah it was 80psi on both cylinders

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Was hoping for it to be higher but have always heard the amount isn't as important as the variance between cylinders

 

[kfa4303]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

This may help.

Maintaining Johnson E & FD Serie

1957 Johnson FDE-11 18 hp Outboard Motor Parts

 

[tmise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Thanks for the link! Hooked the control panel wiring to the solenoid to engine etc...pushed start button, nothing. Ran jumper cables directly from battery to engine ground and starter, starter works great! Either the solenoid is bad or not a good ground. I checked positive going into solenoid, good there. Getting juice from start button to solenoid small terminal. Solenoid doesn't click or make any sound at all. Will check it out further tomorrow but may just throw a brand new one on anyway. Also will hook up fuel lines tomorrow and give it a go.

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1957 Evinrude 18 hp Fastwin Electric 18

Use your mulit meter and battery to test your solenoid.

Put your meter leads across the 2 large posts. Set it to test continuity. Now connect the battery POS post to 1 of the small posts, the battery NEG post to the remaining small post on the solenoid. You should hear an audible "click" and you should get continuity across the large posts on your meter. If not the solenoid is NFG.

Ensure all your wiring is not rotted, and the connections are shiny and tight.