1957 Evinrude starting problem

[spitz]

Having trouble starting 57 fleetwin. Rebuilt carb, changed points and condensor and set gap at .020. Got good spark, able to jump 1/4 inch, and good compression (65). Seems to be excessive fuel in the exhaust tube, can't figure out where it is coming from. Checked reeds on intake plate and they look OK. Engine fires when trying to start but will not run. All new gaskets. I purchased service manual and read 20 times but solution is not obvious. Need advise.

 

[angus63]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Welcome<br />Not famailiar with your motor, but sounds like a classic "float stuck open" senario. Sometimes a few light taps on the bowl solves it, but often requires droppin' the bowl.<br />Good luck

 

[rwise]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

65 lbs of compresion seam low to me, I like at least 80.

 

[spitz]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

I thought I had a stuck float as well but I rebuilt the carb and replaced the float and valve seat. I also had it apart 3 times and it appears to be functioning properly. I followed the manual on rebuilding carb. Could faulty reeds cause this problem? I checked them and they appear to be laying flat and OK. Will check it again. Thanks.

 

[spitz]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

I failed to mention it is a 7.5 HP motor.

 

[JB]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Try the FAQs, Spitz.<br /><br />"Outboard wont start" is a good place to start.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[RPJS]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Hi spitz<br />I seem to remember reading a post a while ago with a motor showing the same symptoms as yours, the cause of the trouble was a split fuel pump diaphram allowing to much fuel into the crank case.<br />Best of luck<br /><br />Richard

 

[angus63]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

The fact that the fuel is layin' in the exhaust tube leads me to believe it's not the reeds. How about mixture screw valve position and condition of the needle, if so equipped?

 

[K Hultgre]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Can you give a little background info.<br /> <br />Did this just happen over the winter? <br />Are you trying to resurrect it from the dead? <br />Do you know the history of the engine?<br /><br />Are you running the pressure tank fuel system (dual hose)?

 

[spitz]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

I used the engine last year, ran fine until end of year and started showing signs of hard starting but ran. Thought I would rebuild carb, water pump and change points/condensor. I also replaced all gaskets at the same time. I am using the original Cruise a day pressure tank (dual hose). Took the gas tank apart and rebuilt it as well. It does pump gas into the carb and seems to work.<br /><br />I set the low speed and high speed needle valves at the recommended setting per the manual before starting.

 

[TTravis]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Did you set the timing correctly when you changed the points? Take a look at this page and let me know if it helps. This is a different motor but the same ignition.<br /><br /> http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm

 

[spitz]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Thanks for the feedback Tom.<br /><br />I have read this page. I set the points just like they describe, gaping it at it's highest point (.020). I double checked this area twice to be sure. Key on crankshaft looks fine. Can jump 1/4" spark gap. New plugs, gapped at .030, like manual said.

 

[TTravis]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Spitz,<br /><br />I went down the same path that you are on until someone showed me how to set the timing with a ohm meter and a couple test leads. I had an old time mechanic laugh at me when I unwrapped a feeler gage I bought at the local parts store. He asked me what I planned to do with it. What he taught me is that timing is all about when the points open and close. Setting the gap at .20 is a starting point from which you start adjusting. You need to make sure your timing is right and you have good spark so you can take the ignition off your list of possible problems. I don't own a timing light but having a ohm meter and seeing exactly when those points open and close took the mystery out of timing for me. In my case, with the timing was off with the .20 initial setting. Timing does not have to be off much to make the motor run or start poorly. I live in the midwest where the old time marine mechanics tell stories about either working for Ralph Evinrude or knowing somebody who did. I love hearing the more practical tips and tricks of working on these motors from the old timers.

 

[K Hultgre]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

When is the last time you did a de-carb on engine? <br />Piston rings could be sticking. Might have a look see by removing the exhaust plate and poking at the rings with a pencil or plastic stick.<br /><br />What does the lower unit lube look like, do you have any aluminum shavings in it???

 

[fireman57]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Is your spark bright blue or orange?

 

[spitz]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Thanks comments. I will double check to make sure the timing is set properly. I have an ohm meter, so I will check it that way.<br /><br />I did a de carb on the engine when I changed the gaskets. I had the exhaust covers off and the piston cover. Just rebuilt the waterpump and had the lower unit apart. Did not notice any shavings.<br /><br />The spark was a bright blue, white'ish color.

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

For those who may not have an ohm meter, I offer this little test circuit.<br />This can be built in 5 minutes using common parts from Radio Shack. The parts shouldn't cost more than $5.00.<br /><br />

<br /><br />Parts list:<br /><br />1- Red LED - 2 volt version<br />1- 9 volt battery clip<br />1- 9 volt battery<br />1- 330 ohm resistor 1/8 or 1/4 watt version<br />2- Alligator clips- one for the points connection, the other for the ground connection.<br /><br />Construction is easy using 20 or 22 gauge wire. Ideally, solder all connections, but twisting the wires and tapeing will work too. Just make sure the connections are good and well insulated. Test the circuit by touching the 'points wire' to the 'ground wire', the LED should light. If not, re-check your work. BTW, the LED has a flat side on it base (where the 2 wires exit the LED). The wire that is closest to the flat side goes to battery negative. If you reverse the LED connections, you won't burn out the LED, it just won't light. Be sure to use the resistor as shown. Without this resistor, the LED will self destruct. The resistor limits the battery current and it's value has been calculated for a 9 volt battery. <br /><br />After building the test circuit, and making the connections (points and ground) , position the LED near the armature plate alignment mark. As the flywheel is rotated, you'll see exactly when the points go open, the LED will go out. I find this easier than having to glance back and forth between an ohm meter and the flywheel alignment marks. <br /><br />While A DVM is an invaluable tool, this is not rocket science. A simple test circuit like the one here can do the job just fine, and you'll save a few bucks to boot.

 

[TTravis]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

I agree, your way is better. I actually used a continuity tester on my multi meter which had a beep when the circuit was closed. A friend of mine who went to OMC school years ago said that they took their timing lights away and handed them a lightbuld, battery, and couple of wires and then told to go set the timing on a motor. Most of the guys scratched their head before they figured out what to to. Whether you have a meter or light, setting timing by continuity is a good way to get it right.<br /><br />Nice Drawing....

 

[Xcusme]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Spitz ,<br /><br />My apologies in advance for hijacking your thread with the test circuit diagram thingy. I surely didn't mean for your questions to get lost in the shuffle.<br /><br />Now back to your problem. You said that you 'rebuilt the carb'. Did you just clean it or did you install a carb rebuild kit?<br />The reason I ask is that you should have replaced the Boss gasket with the rebuild. This small donut shaped gasket prevents the carb from sucking fuel directly from the carb bowl into the carb throat (bypasses the low speed idle circuit). This would greatly over-richen the mixture making the motor all but impossible to idle and hard to start as well.Sadly, I don't have a print of your carb. I'm just taking a shot in the dark here mentioning a Boss gasket. A peek in the service manual will confirm this easily.<br /><br />Let us know what you find.

 

[spitz]

Re: 1957 Evinrude starting problem

Not a problem Xcusme, appreciate the feedback.<br /><br />I did use a rebuild kit and replaced the boss gasket as well as the float, packing nuts and other items. The carb seems very simple. I cleaned and used compressed air before reassembling.<br /><br />I checked the points and set the timing with an ohm meter. It was very close, made minor adjustment.<br /><br />Tried starting again last night. After several attempts (using electric drill to start) it acts like it wants to run (fires) but won't stay running. I pulled the plugs, removed the bypass exhaust covers and pulled the manifold plate off. One thing I keep noticing is a large amount of fuel saturating the plugs, piston area, crankcase and the bypass exhaust covers. I certainly appears fuel is getting to the piston chamber and fires but won't stay running.<br /><br />Could this still be a timing issue?? A carb problem?? I have good spark (jump 1/4" gap and compression).<br /><br />Please advise.