1957 Fleetform Custom Restoration

[briangcc]

Neat little boat.

IF it helps any....the MFG in my signature had the following setup for a transom.... Wood on the inside, attached to the fiberglass hull, which had another piece of wood on the outside. So it was a Wood-Fiberglass-Wood sandwich of a transom.

From what I recall. it was through bolted from outside to inside. Might have been adhered as well but I wouldn't know as we got rid of the boat before I could think of restoring it.

There was a small knee brace that ran from the transom down to the keel on the inside of the boat to provide additional support. I want to say it was 1" thick mahogany for the MFG. I believe that's what was suggested above to help reinforce your transom with the additional power and weight you're adding.

As for paint its your call. Most here are on a budget so painting with Rustoleum with hardener is much cheaper than plunking down $$$ on a gallon of bc/cc automotive paint along with all the associated primers for the selected paint system. **I might need to add another $ to my figure as last time I bought paint was back in the 90's and it cost me about $100 for a qt of Ford silver in bc/cc.

 

[MPrimeaux]

Neat little boat.

IF it helps any....the MFG in my signature had the following setup for a transom.... Wood on the inside, attached to the fiberglass hull, which had another piece of wood on the outside. So it was a Wood-Fiberglass-Wood sandwich of a transom.

From what I recall. it was through bolted from outside to inside. Might have been adhered as well but I wouldn't know as we got rid of the boat before I could think of restoring it.

There was a small knee brace that ran from the transom down to the keel on the inside of the boat to provide additional support. I want to say it was 1" thick mahogany for the MFG. I believe that's what was suggested above to help reinforce your transom with the additional power and weight you're adding.

As for paint its your call. Most here are on a budget so painting with Rustoleum with hardener is much cheaper than plunking down $$$ on a gallon of bc/cc automotive paint along with all the associated primers for the selected paint system. **I might need to add another $ to my figure as last time I bought paint was back in the 90's and it cost me about $100 for a qt of Ford silver in bc/cc.

Thanks for the input! Yeah everything helps at this point brother, I’m just starting to try and wrap my head around what needs to happen. I am definitely leaning toward the rustoleum as of right now. I recently sprayed my motorcycle with house of kolor and it was around $700 for everything. I’ve got plenty of clear and reduced left, but that’s about it. This started off as literally a Frankenstein throw away project on the CHEAP, but I just can’t cut this boat up. Don’t have the heart. I’ve used a fiberglass repair kit from Walmart ONCE on an old piece of junk boat that was scrapped at the end of the day. I’m struggling with the details right now. I want to do a “good” job, but really never had any intention of a restoration project. I mean, I paid $200 for the boat.... sphelps answered some of my questions on resin and glass, but I still have some. Not sure about exactly what resin to get. Read about some with wax I think.... I don’t know.... I’m anxious to get started, but want to have the materials (at least some of them) before I start cutting. I work 21 days on/21 days off, so I have to do this in spurts!! Lol!!

 

[MPrimeaux]

After reading my post, let me clarify a little on my resin question. I THINK I understand that there is lay up resin and finish resin. Do I need both, or do I just get the lay up and add something to the last coat? Or....am I just WAY freaking off and need to re-read some posts again!! :facepalm::frusty:

 

[sphelps]

Layup resin is fine . It has no wax added . That allows you to do multiple layers without sanding in between applications . The poly with wax , if not done wet on wet layups will require sanding between coats . The wax helps the resin cure faster and makes it easier to sand so some just add wax to there lady coat of resin .
I never use wax with poly and have had no problems with it curing ...

 

[MPrimeaux]

Got it. Thanks for the info sphelps. I think I'll just get the layup to cut down on components. If I go with the poly, I will need CSM and 1708 alternating between the two. If I want texture, finish with 1708 and if I want smooth, finish with CSM. At least 2 layers of each for stringers and transom. Fillet corners with PB before cloth goes down. Prep wood with resin/CSM/resin before clamping down/in/securing. Does that sound about right? Oh... and would you mind giving me an idea of what weight CSM and 1708 that you would use? Thanks again my friend.

 

[sphelps]

I-1/2 oz CSM and the 1708 bi-axle is 17 oz cloth with 3/4 oz mat sewn to one side .
‘I would put the 1.5 oz csm then the 1708 with the mat side down . No need to put another layer of 1.5 csm in between the next layer of 1708 . Just put the mat side down on the 1708 . Most like to use the 1.5 oz csm on the hull first because it fills in the irregularities of the old glass and promotes a better bond to the hull and first layer of 1708 ...
I would use PB to install the new transom wood or coosa board to the transom fiberglass skin . 1/4 “ notched trowel to spread the PB ..

 

[Woodonglass]

If your using 1708 there's really no need for additional CSM. It will adhere very well and be plenty strong. If you don't want pattern bleed thru, then you can lay the 1708 with the fabric side down, Or add a layer of CSM. Make sure to precoat ALL the wood components with resin and fill any/all voids in the wood before laying any glass. Pay close attention to the plywood edges and saturate them with plenty of resin.

You might find this informative....Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[MPrimeaux]

I-1/2 oz CSM and the 1708 bi-axle is 17 oz cloth with 3/4 oz mat sewn to one side .
‘I would put the 1.5 oz csm then the 1708 with the mat side down . No need to put another layer of 1.5 csm in between the next layer of 1708 . Just put the mat side down on the 1708 . Most like to use the 1.5 oz csm on the hull first because it fills in the irregularities of the old glass and promotes a better bond to the hull and first layer of 1708 ...
I would use PB to install the new transom wood or coosa board to the transom fiberglass skin . 1/4 “ notched trowel to spread the PB ..

ahh.. yep. I forgot about the mat on the 1708. I understand. As far as glassing materials... IYO are particular brands better than others or is glass glass and resin resin?

 

[MPrimeaux]

You might find this informative....Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

Thanks a bunch Wood. Yep. I read through it once or twice before, but clearly need to read through a couple more times!. One thing that I don't remember seeing (might have just missed it) is peanut butter. I understand the concept, but don't remember seeing recipes. Sphelps helped me with that earlier, so I THINK I'm good on that. Couple of things that I have going for me on this little boat is I don't THINK there is much wood in it. The "deck" of the boat follows the vee of the keel. There were originally fiberglass, painted "deck plates" that screwed into the two stringers to create a flat surface to stand on. I'm also pretty sure there is no wood in the keel down the center of the hull... or do you think that I'm dreaming that? I don't have a picture here on my phone of the bottom of the hull here at work, but there is just kind of a fin that runs most of the length of the boat that's approximately 3/4 - 1" wide and 2" tall. It would have to be a small piece of wood if any at all. Whatcha think? The original literature on these boats advertise "fiberglass reinforced plastic" hulls. You think there's any chance of there not being any wood in the keel? I do have a picture of the inside of the boat where I'm talking about.

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, I see now. I've seen this type of hull before and you're absolutely correct No Stringers and no wood in the keel. That's Great for you. Check the hull really well and Feel for any soft spots in the glass. If you find any just lay two layers of resin and 1708 over it and it'll be fine. I Thought there was a PB link in the post but I checked and it's Not there. For future reference here it is. FriscoBoater did this video based on the recipe that OOPS gave me a Long time ago. If you want a recipe for fairing compound it's basically resin, and glass bubbles until its like mayonnaise. Then add the catalyst and about 1% surfacing wax. This will make a filler that's really easy to sand but you only have about 15 to twenty minutes before it kicks. Always apply filler in the early morning in the shade so it won't kick so fast.
The Painting link below also has great info on using Rustoleum or Tractor Paint with the Hardener. I painted my boat with it and it's really holding up well.


Making Peanut Butter

 

[MPrimeaux]

Ok, I see now. I've seen this type of hull before and you're absolutely correct No Stringers and no wood in the keel. That's Great for you. Check the hull really well and Feel for any soft spots in the glass. If you find any just lay two layers of resin and 1708 over it and it'll be fine. I Thought there was a PB link in the post but I checked and it's Not there. For future reference here it is. FriscoBoater did this video based on the recipe that OOPS gave me a Long time ago. If you want a recipe for fairing compound it's basically resin, and glass bubbles until its like mayonnaise. Then add the catalyst and about 1% surfacing wax. This will make a filler that's really easy to sand but you only have about 15 to twenty minutes before it kicks. Always apply filler in the early morning in the shade so it won't kick so fast.
The Painting link below also has great info on using Rustoleum or Tractor Paint with the Hardener. I painted my boat with it and it's really holding up well.


Making Peanut Butter

Awesome! Thanks, that helps a lot. There are NO soft spots in the glass except for the port stringer, but I figure if I'm gonna cut out one stringer it's all getting replaced. I'm going to be powering it with a '63 Merc 650 short shaft, so it's a lot of motor for the boat. Boat was originally rated for a 45hp according to the old literature I found on the net. There are no hull id plates on the boat. I will probably fabricate some braces and tie them in from the transom to the stringers diagonally. In my head that will stiffen transom up in all directions for the extra torque from motor. Something like the red triangles in this picture.

One of my next questions was about the Rustoleum. I have made it through most of your BF thread, but I was wondering how it was holding up. I am really leaning toward using the Rusto. Thanks a bunch for the info!!

 

[Woodonglass]

I love the Rustoleum. It's holding up really well. Has maintained it's high gloss and only a few chips that were extremely easy to touch up. When the time comes, feel free to contact me if you have questions. Sam Painted his boat with it and I think he's pretty happy with it too.

I totally agree with adding the Braces. Double thickness of 3/4" plywood and glass em in. My only concern with the bigger Motor is the weight. See if you can google the weight of 63' 45 hp motor and compare it to the 65hp you're going to use. If its more than a 50lb difference you might need to reconsider. Once you get yourself another passenger and a full gas tank there be a lot of weight for that little boat. You might consider putting the fuel tank in the bow of the boat to help with the weight issues. JMHO and remember I AM just a Dumb Old Okie!!!

 

[sphelps]

Mine was the valspar but basically the same stuff with hardener . It’s held up pretty well so far . Just needs a coat of wax every now and then . I have also been using the ppg delfleet essential single stage polyurethane tractor paint lately . A bit more expensive but not to bad .. I painted my Tee Nee with it and also the bottom my WM ..

 

[archbuilder]

Nice looking project look forward to following along.

 

[MPrimeaux]

Mine was the valspar but basically the same stuff with hardener . It’s held up pretty well so far . Just needs a coat of wax every now and then . I have also been using the ppg delfleet essential single stage polyurethane tractor paint lately . A bit more expensive but not to bad .. I painted my Tee Nee with it and also the bottom my WM ..

Got it brother. Thanks for the info. My concern with the tractor paint... or automotive paint is it chipping off the first time it bumps a dock, but short of re-gelling I don't think I have any better options. Have ya'll used or do you know if it can be cleared on top for a little extra protection? Thanks again for all of the help! I'm really looking forward to this little boat.

 

[MPrimeaux]

Nice looking project look forward to following along.

Thanks brother. I'm sure it'll take me a little bit to really get going. I work 21 on /21 off and have a camping trip to Tennessee planned with my first grandchild for the week of the 4th this time off. First thing I want to do is get the motor running and steering functional just to put it on the water and see how it sits in the water with the 650 on the back. Not sure if the fuel tank will need to go under the bow. I THINK it's gonna sit a lot like your Sleek. I figure it's fairly proportional to mine as far as length/weight and motor hanging on the back. Do you have any issues with porpoising? I would appreciate any advice/counsel you can give! Love your boat by the way.

 

[sphelps]

It doesn’t matter what paint ya use it’s gunna get chipped and scratched eventually .. That is if you use it ..
You can clear coat if you want just a bit more sanding or buffing to touch up when it does get scratched ..
Some folks always clear coat while others don’t .. I didn’t but that don’t mean it’s not a good idea ..

 

[MPrimeaux]

It doesn’t matter what paint ya use it’s gunna get chipped and scratched eventually .. That is if you use it ..
You can clear coat if you want just a bit more sanding or buffing to touch up when it does get scratched ..
Some folks always clear coat while others don’t .. I didn’t but that don’t mean it’s not a good idea ..

Yeah I guess you've got a point. I'm not building a show boat. I definitely plan on using it and actually one of the reasons that I was looking into the whole "tractor" paint thing was ease of repair. It's cheap and it I do scratch/chip it, it's easy to repair. I have another question about the enamel thing. Oil based or acrylic enamel.... or does it matter?? I looked at TCP Global last night and they have a lot of color choices, but it's acrylic enamel.

 

[sphelps]

Oil based enamel with the added enamel hardener ..
This is a cool source for vintage boat paint .
https://kirbypaint.com/

 

[MPrimeaux]

Oil based enamel with the added enamel hardener ..
This is a cool source for vintage boat paint .
https://kirbypaint.com/

Ok thanks. I'll check it out.