1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

hockeyfann

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
22
The engine has been stalling at slow speeds so I decided to clean the carb.When i opened up the carb and it was clean accept for the float chamber witch had all kinds of gunk on it.should i replace it? I noticed there was a needle like object right next to the float chamber. One end of it was needle like but the other was more square shaped witch end goes face up. Its called the float seat or something like that.

Lower unit
For the lower unit it says to use sae 90 in the case but i cant find any so can i use outboard 90 oil.
Ive been having gear problems to. sometimes when the shift lever in in neutral gear i will go to start it and it will start in gear some times when i snap it in foreword it goes in reverse. do i need new gears? where do i grease the swival bracket
 

samo_ott

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jun 18, 2006
Messages
5,125
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

Get a Carb kit. Clean the entire Carb with Carb cleaner and blow out all the passagewaysand then reassemble.

Use 90 weight oil in the LU or get the right stuff at a marine store or your dealer.

If you move the shift lever forward and the engine goes into reverse you have a problem.
 

kfa4303

Banned
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

ditto on the carb kit. i would get a new plastic float to replace the cork float. you can order them both right here at iboats, i believe. the gear oil is available at all marine stores and wally world. you'll want to get a pump for it too. they should sell it right next to the oil. I'm not sure how you could go into rev by shifting into fwd or vise versa? you should flip the shift lever towards yourself for fwd and away for rev, right? you shouldn't necessarily need new gears unless they're damaged, but you may ultimately need to open up the gear case if the shifting problem persists. you might also want to check the shift rod linkage to see if it's properly tightened too. in any event, be sure to systematically fix one problem at a time so you can be sure of its effect on the motors performance. keep us posted.
 

kfa4303

Banned
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

To access the gears you have to first remove the lower unit which is held on to the exhaust housing by 4-5 bolts (page 12/13, part 13), then remove the lower bolt of the the shift rod linkage (page 12/13, part 42) behind the oval window on the right side of the motor. with a love tap or two, the lower unit can then come off. you can then flip it over and remove the 6 screws that hold the lower half of the gear case to the upper half (page12/13, part 22) tpo access the gears and clutch dog. Hope that helps.
 

hockeyfann

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
22
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

ok now the hard part how do i get the drive shaft and shift rods back in place to put the lower unit back on????????
 

AlTn

Commander
Joined
Mar 9, 2010
Messages
2,813
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

have you removed the driveshaft and lower shift rod from the lower unit?
 

Chinewalker

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

The pointy end of the needle goes INTO the hole with the flat side sticking out...
 

hockeyfann

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2011
Messages
22
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

no the drive shaft and shift rods are still in the lower unit
 

kfa4303

Banned
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Messages
6,094
Re: 1957 johnson 10hp sea horse

Good. Now just re-insert the LU in the reverse order in which you took it off. Guide the top of the drive shaft into the under side of the power head. You may need to turn the flywheel a bit (only ever turn the flywheel CLOCKWISE! for a variety of reasons) to help the two align. You'll feel it slide into place. Just before it seats fully, make sure the copper water uptake tube is properly aligned with the rubber grommet on the top of the water pump housing. A bit of vaseline on the copper tube can help it slide into the grommet. Now push in the LU the rest of the way. You should feel the drive shaft seat in the power head and the copper tube into the water pump housing. Now re-install the 4-5 bolts that held the LU into the exhaust housing. Now you want to connect the lower shift rod to the upper shift rod via the shift rod connector. Be patient it can be a little tedious. I usually take a pair of pliers and tug up on the lower shift rod, then shift the motor into REV, which should lower the upper shift rod and connector. Now guide the lower shift rod in to the connector such that the groove in the rod aligns with the threaded lower bolt hole on the connector. Ponce they've alined re-install the lower bolt of the shift rod connector. The upper and lower shift rods "should" now be connected. To test, shift the motor into FWD. You should see the shift rod move up. You can now spin the flywheel CLOCKWISE to see if the prop engages. After 4-5 CW rotations yu should see the prop spin CW also, indicating that the motor is indeed in FWD. Now shift into NEUTRAL. The shift rod should drop a bit. Rotate the flywheel CW a few more times. The prop should not respond at all, thus indicating neutral. Finally, shift the motor into REV. The shift rod should go down even more. Again, rotate the flywheel CW. you should see the prop spin COUNTER CLOCKWISE indicating REV. Take your time and it should all go together pretty easily. Keep us posted.
 
Top