1958 35hp seahorse problems

[datsjeep]

This is a gift motor. I changed points and condensors. Replaced the O rings on the needle valves because the vibration while running would move the idle adjustment knobs. After changing the O rings I am having a hard time getting the motor dialed in. High idle seems to run best backed off 1/4 turn from closed but I cant get the thing to start unless the slow idle is all the way open. When it starts it runs ruff at low idle and smokes a lot. I am using a 50/1 mix so I am surprised by the amount of smoke I am getting. I have the book on the motor but can not follow the instructions to adjust the carbs because it wont start with a 1 1/2 turns backed off on slow idle adjustment. any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Lark40]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

If you read the "book on the motor" it should tell you that an 1958 Johnson 35 engine requires a 24:1 gas/oil mixture. It did not go to 50:1 until 1964. If you think it's smokey now, wait until you double the oil!

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

yes i am aware the book says 24/1. I have also read on this site where it recommends 32/1 40/1 and 50/1 because of the superior modern oil. I am also aware that doubling the oil will make it smoke more. What I am not aware of is the answer to my problem. Thanks for your help.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Is it possible that a bit of the old packing ended up in the carb passageways? There are two orifices on the idle passageway if memory serves, one ahead of a closed throttle plate and one behind. Perhaps one is blocked?<br />Also, if you've got a timing light you can double check your point setting (set to .020 right?). A pointer on the flywheel for each spark plug should line up between the two lines on the armature plate, just above the cam follower. Your can also check that using a digital multimeter instead. The resistance to ground between the wires coming from the armature plate should drop from just above 0ohms to 0 as the pointer falls between the two lines.

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

I have not torn the carb down but that is probably my next step. Yes .20 is what my gap is.

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

i have not torn the carb apart yet. Probably my next step. My gap is at .20 on the points. As far as I know I got all the backing out.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

.020 I take it

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

.020 correct

 

[alcan]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Hi Datsjeep<br />The reason your motor won't respond to needle adjustments is there is too much fuel. <br /><br />Hi Datsjeep<br /> The reason your motor won't respond to needle valve adjustments is because it is getting too much fuel. Remove the carb and clean it. You will probably need a carb kit with a float. Make sure the float level is adjusted correctly and the float valve closes. Also be sure the little round gasket gets put on the main nozzle (between nozzle and bowl. Make sure packing nuts are snug and the needles really do seat. To do this loosen the packing nuts seat the needles by hand, then back them out, then snug up the packing nuts. Once you get this rascal set-up, you won't notice that much more smoke at 24:1. You will need to dial in the high-speed needle first. This needle controls how much fuel the low-speed needle gets. This is why you are having to open your low-speed so much, you have the high-speed cranked down too far, due to other problems. Does this make sence?

 

[alcan]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

One more thing. You can beleive what you want, But don't short the oil. If she smokes she smokes. When you are running in a test tank all motors smoke.

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Alcan,Thanks for the info. It does make sence what you are saying except for having the high speed needle closed to much. And I only say that because of the fact that according to the book I am right where I should be on that one. However I am going to rebuild the carb and see if that doesnt solve the problem. As for the smoke I am talking excessive smoke, campfire in the rain smoke.

 

[steelespike]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

As far as oil fuel mix My info from a 50 year Evinrude dealer is 50:1 on larger motors back to<br />1960. Dont be getting testy were just trying to save you problems.<br />Im sure it will respond when you get the<br />carb cleaned up.

 

[alcan]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Hi Dats<br /> What book are are you using? Yes the setting on your high-speed needle might be correct. It just sounds a little lean on average to me. Now here's another little thought. You said that you replaced the needle packing do to the vibration moveing the needles around. When this occurs there tends to be excessive wear on the tapers of the needles and the the seats. Inspect needles carefully. If they are grooved at all replace them. Too much smoke equals unmetered fuel, (too much fuel).

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

well i took it to the lake today. Full throttle it runs fine and it runs pretty good at low throttle as well. I cant get it to troll down as much as I would like. If I turn the throttle lower than the shift mark on the throttle adjustment it will spit sputter and die. I am going to go through the carb and all fuel lines since I found one sucking air today. Maybe fixing the leaky one will do it but I am going to change all of them.

 

[alcan]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Hi Dats <br /> Can I assume you are still using the orignal presure system? If you are,you might want to replace the o-rings in the fuel line connector. Don't toss it out repair it. They are the hardest part of this system to find. They can get spendy. Look closely at the o-rings if they show any sign of damage or hardness replace them. They can affect how your motor runs in a big way.

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Thanks Alcan and if what you are talking about is connected to the motor then yep that would be a good assumption. Where are the O rings? I will check them out.

 

[datsjeep]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

when you say dont toss it out do you mean the fuel line connector? Or the preasure system? And where are the O rings?<br /><br />Thanks again

 

[alcan]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Hi Dats<br /> The fuel line connector is what connects the fuel line to the motor. The O-rings are inside the connector. You can inspect them looking from the motor end. Make sure the presure is off the tank and wear safety glasses.

 

[alcan]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

Yes I was meaning the connector. A lot of fellows find the o-rings bad, cut the thing off the hose and toss it, figuring they will just grab a new one from thier local dealer. Wrong! Now your local dealer may have the o-rings to make repairs. He may also have a repaired connector for sale also, (for a king's ransom).

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1958 35hp seahorse problems

When you say "all the way closed" or "all the way open" are you referring to the knobs hitting the stops on the face plate, or are the needles themselves bottoming out. Reason I ask, is there is no "all the way open" - the needle will simply keep turning until it comes out in your hand. I've seen many instances where someone has removed the knobs at some point and they get put back in in a different position. The numbers on the face plate are a point of reference not to be take as gospel. Once you do get the motor running well, loosen the center set-screw in each needle and position the knob so it is centered. This will give you a good point of reference...<br />- Scott