1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

[PhilfromOhio]

Okay: Ill start my post like so many other I have posted. I'll fill you in with what I have done, and hopefully you can steer me in the right direction. Recently I have rebuilt and old V4S-10 50Hp. By rebuilt I mean, the entire lower unit, oil seals, clutch dog spaghetti seals ect.. Hey.. No leaks. Then I rebuilt the carbs, new float, needle & seat. Polished the slow needles and polished the fast needles, and soaked the entire body in laquer thinner for two days and de-gunked it. Blew it out with the compressor and checked all the ports, No clogs. then I noticed it was running a bit better, 90psi on 1,3 & 2 cylinders and 85psi on #4. Now, number 4 was white oil soaked and hadn't been burnt at all. So,I checked the spark again, and excellent blue spark as I have replaced the points as well. I bought a complete new reed-plate assy and now all four cylinders are firing properly. I have checked the timing marks and it is in proper position. Here's the problem. I have to choke it to stay running, and the timing mark on the pulley is clear on the opposite side when I plug my timing light up? Could I be 180 degrees out? If so, how could that be if I time it with all the marks lined up? HELP!!!

 

[coolguy147]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

maybe your needles are too lean? set the high speed yet? what about your low speed?

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

Yep. I tried setting them to manual listed factory specs. 1.5 turns out on the slow, and 5/8's turn on the high. Set it to idle, although it is rough and then turn the slow's one at a time until the motor picks up, turn more until it starts to choke out, then back it out 1/4 turn, and then the same procedure on the opposite needle. The fast needles I did on the water, had a buddy race it WOT and adjusted the needles accordingly? Quite perplexing? I thought for sure with the new carb kit and leaf assy, would have fixed it. Even put in a new condensor. The spark is really really strong in all four? It is definately a timing or fuel issue. I have tried the standard 24:1 ratio and then bumped it to a 50:1, no difference. I cant for the life of me figure out why the timing mark on the pulley is constant on the opposite side of the magneto housing? Shouldnt it be lineing up together if it is properly timed? I am curious if perhaps the fuel line I am using isnt too big? I bought a new line with bulb, but noticed it was a larger diameter line than what was originally used? The fuel pump has been completely re-built as well? When it is running the bowl seldom stays full. it is usually half full? Is that normal? I am thinking that the fuel pump may be working too hard to keep fuel in the line as it is bigger? Basically when it is runing, it idles for about 5 seconds then coughs, idles then coughs, idles and coughs.....infinity. Any thoughts?

 

[lindy46]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

Glass bowl won't stay full - that is normal. When you rebuilt the carb, did you remove the plug at top of carb and clean the little orifices in there?

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

Phil, As near as I can remember, those points have overlap, such that one opens first, and when the second set opens, the cylinder fires. This overlap switches for each cylinder. such that each point fires two cylinders. Perhaps you do not have the gap correct on the second set of points.

The timing mark for the first set of points is obvious. However, the second set of points are mounted closer to the block, and the timing park is on the pully base, between the block and pully, 90* CW of the first timing mark.
Since that motor is a two cycle, you cannot be 180* off on the timing. The pully should rotate the same speed as the flywheel, and the motor fires each time it hits a bit before TDC.

 

[PhilfromOhio]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

Chris1956/lindy46. Thanks for all the information. As much as you have helped me through this rebuild, If I could e-mail you a cold one i would , I have the points both set to .020, and also, I am thinking I may have set the points incorrectly. I have the first set to closed at the two first marks lined up, just starting to open, shoul I have them fully open when marks are alligned? Also, the orrifices that lindy46 stated, I am not too sure where they are located asI have the manual infront of me? I will go get the carb and have an actual physical inspection. Also, what are your thoughts on getting the engine started, and if it runs poorly, perhaps I could adjust...advance or retard one tooth at a time?
Any

 

[Chris1956]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

Points should just open and timing marks match......

BTW -The OMC manual cautioned against removing the high speed nozzles. It stated that a special tool was needed to center them, in the carb body.

 

[DmnYnkee]

Re: 1958 Johnson 50Hp V4S-10 Question?

I have been strugling with the same motor, and am very familiar with it. My issue was a bad coil, even though it appeared to be giving good spark. I replaced it, and it runs smooth as ever now.

Another question for you. Did you have the heads off? Could you be getting some water into a cylinder causing the engine to only run on 3? I also had this happen during my rebuild.

Also, this is easy to time, but also easy to be off by 1 cog depending on the angle you view the marks on the magneto. I found the you should not view the marks from the back, which is where you would be to line up the flywheel marks. You should view the magneto marks from off to the side. this view will show a 1 cog difference on timing.

Good luck.