1958 mfg

[RMJ]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS



Took some more pictures
Got alot done on the interior. Continuing to work on seat area before moving on to transom. When that is done I will flip her over and start on the hull

 

[SteveMFG_Oxford]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Excellent progress! Looking real good!

I wish my boat had the same seat set up. I'm sure that it contributes in a major way to the solidity of the hull. I found out how soft the fiberglass sides were when I tried to roll mine over. If that huge cross beam across the gunnels had been present I would have worried less.

My seats are crappy and I haven't decided what to do with them exactly. I'll use what I have for now.

I built a 12' catboat from scratch and bent on a dry mahogany rubrail about 1 3/8" wide by 5/8" in thick. The curve was pretty severe at the bow but it went on OK. It was bolted with SS screws with nylock nuts and plugged about every 12" or so.

Don't forget ... you could soak it, then steam it ?? Or soak it and just bend it. Mine was put on in 1987 and still looks great today!

You're gonna have one fine looking boat when you are done!

MFG must have been in love with that blue paint. Even my '61 had it inside!

 

[Mark_VTfisherman]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

...I wish my boat had the same seat set up. I'm sure that it contributes in a major way to the solidity of the hull. I found out how soft the fiberglass sides were when I tried to roll mine over. If that huge cross beam across the gunnels had been present I would have worried less.

Actually your hull has a lot of solidity- in the plane it is designed to withstand force.

When "rolling" any boat you should always install/provide across-thwart support and gunwale-to-gunwale reinforcement. The boat bottom will withstand the thousand pounds of weight of the boat and occupants because of the stringers and support ribbing. The hull cap (gunwale topper) has very little need to withstand a thousand pounds and should always be protected if rolling any boat over.

Don't forget ... you could soak it, then steam it ?? Or soak it and just bend it...

While soaking a piece of would may make it easier to bend, it actually weakens the wood. Dry bending and laminating with glue will be stronger and not incur the negatives you get from soaking wood. When steaming wood one typically starts with green wood. (See notes in my previous post.)

Not trying to be critical- just trying to help. I think the project is really cool and wish I was working on a project like that right now! Best of luck to you and the OP. I am enjoying the project a great deal.

Mark

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

It's all looken great RMJ !!
I would love to try my hand at one of the wooden type old boats one day. I'll have to get more and better tools before I attempt anything like that!!
Keep up the excellent work!

 

[SteveMFG_Oxford]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Mark .. I agree with your dry laminating. Difficult curves are much easier with thinner stock. When I built the catboat someone suggested wetting the stock and locally heating with an electric paint stripper gun. Never needed it.

My little Oxford, according to MFG specs only weighs in at 475 lbs. total. Mine is stripped so I thought the rolling would be pretty safe. When I saw the flexing, that's when I decided to run it up the tree. The bow area is much stiffer than the sides so we rolled it further forward without incident. I was sweating it though!

Now for the hard part ... that darn bottom paint ... ugh ..

RMJ .. I have to ask a favor ...

Could you please give me the complete dimensions of the wood rub strake on the side of your boat?? I would like to add this "woody" feature to my '61. It just looks good! Is it mahogany? A photo of the ends would be great too.

 

[RMJ]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Steve
The rubstrake is mahogany . it is 12 ft long and 1 inch x 3/4 x 3/4 . That means 1 inch on the side attached to the hull and 3/4 thick. It tapers to 3/4" wide on ths outside like a trapezoid
I really appreciate all the feedback from everyone . I want this boat to be real sharp.
By the way I used a paint stripper from Advance Auto made to strip tough acrylic paints . It did not harm the fiberglass and was MUCH better than anything i found at Lowes.
Rick

 

[SteveMFG_Oxford]

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Re: 1958 mfg. ADDED NEW PICS

Thank you for the dimensions!

If I am understanding you correctly I need a piece of 1" x 1" x 12' mahogany stock to rip into a trapezoid with a base of 1 inch, a top of 3/4 inch and sides xx inch with the base going against the hull. For some reason it sounds small ....

I would have guessed it was bigger from the pictures I've seen.

Are you familiar with Penetrol? Made by the Flood Company. In my past woody boat life I used this on my mahogany before varnishing. I simply applied it with a rag and allowed it to soak in. Usually overnight. If the wood was especially dry I might do it twice. It really made my varnish bite fast to the wood and provided a nice even color. It also gives a nice "preview" of what the wood will look like after the varnish is applied. I use MinWax Polyurethane Spar Varnish (Gloss). It's not super expensive like Epifanes and holds up really well. Easily found in most home and hardware stores. I do not add Penetrol to the varnish.

Note: There is Penetrol and Marine Penetrol. From what I can tell its the same stuff. Of course Marine is more expensive! Regular Penetrol is available at Home Depot paint department.